Page images
PDF
EPUB

society, which is no where excelled in British India, appears to me an uninteresting and unpleasant city, and, in beauty of situation, inferior even to Broach.

The Education Society of Bombay have a school here, where a considerable number of Parsee, Mussulman, and Hindoo boys are instructed in writing, reading, arithmetic, and English. They read the Scriptures, as a text-book, without objection, and their progress seemed highly creditable. Some of the boys were of good families. The schoolmaster is an old soldier, but the chief conductor of the school is Mr. Jefferies the Chaplain.

April 17.-We left Surat in a large lateen-sailed boat with twelve rowers, for the mouth of the Taptee, where the Vigilant Company's ketch was waiting to receive us. The bar at the mouth of the river is broad, and sometimes said to be formidable to boats. When we passed there was a considerable swell, but the surf by no means high or dangerous. The Vigilant we found a vessel of about sixty tons, very neat and clean, with a good cuddy, and two small cabins partitioned from it; she carried six little carronades, and had a crew of twenty men; twelve sepoys, who form a part of its establishment, had been removed, to make room for us, on board the two country boats which received our luggage and horses. The serang was a Mussulman, a decent and intelligent man, and the crew, though not very nimble or alert in their movements, were, to all appearance, steady, and tolerably acquainted with their business. In other respects the bark was a bad one ; a heavy sailer, rolling and pitching severely, and a bad sea-boat, having the scuppers of her deck so low in the water that on shipping a sea, the crew had no resource but baleing. The wind, which had been for some time unfavourable, blew almost a gale from the S.W. and we remained at anchor the whole of the day, tossing and pitching very uncomfortably.

Early next morning we dropped down with the tide for a few miles; and, the wind drawing round a little more to the north as the sun rose, we made a pretty good run to the parallel of Damaun,

[blocks in formation]

a Portuguese settlement, at the foot of some high hills, and thence to within sight of the yet higher range of "St. John." We ran on through the night.

At breakfast on Wednesday the 19th, we passed the mountains of Bassein, exhibiting, besides some meaner elevations, one very high hill of a table form, and another not quite so elevated, rising in a conical peak. Thence we coasted the islands of Salsette and Bombay, both rocky, and in some parts considerably elevated, but with the high mountains of the Concan seen rising behind both. Though at a considerable distance from the shore, we passed a vast number of bamboos, planted as fishing-stakes, and a fleet of boats, which, like all others which I have seen on this coast, had large lateen sails. They were extremely picturesque; and though, apparently, not very manageable, made their way fast through the water: they could not tack, but wore with great celerity and accuracy; and, though their gunwales were often scarcely above the water, impressed me with the idea of their being good sea-boats, and good sailers. Their style of rigging differs from that of the Mediterranean, in that they have seldom more than two masts, of which the hinder is much the smallest. They have also a bowsprit, and their sails, instead of being a right-angled triangle, have the foremost angle cut off, so as to bring them nearer the principle of a lug-sail. They are very white, being, I believe made of cotton. As the sun set we saw the Bombay light-house, and, about midnight, anchored in the mouth of the harbour.

CHAPTER XXVI.

BOMBAY.

Island of Elephanta-Salsette-Gora-bunder-Bassein-Cave Temple of Kennery-PareilOran Outang-Journey to Poonah-Gháts-Cave at Carlee-Poonah-Conquest and Government of the Deckan-Consecration of the Church at Tannah-Mr. ElphinstoneDescription of the Island of Bombay-Departure.

APRIL 26.-My dear wife and elder girl arrived at Bombay after a tedious and distressing voyage, both from weather and sickness. As the journal kept by the former gives a just idea of the principal things which we saw in Bombay and its neighbourhood, I shall merely make a few observations on some of the more striking objects and occurrences.

On the 28th was my visitation (a confirmation of about 120 children had occurred a few days before) attended by the Archdeacon, (Dr. Barnes,) six Chaplains and one Missionary, being all within a reasonable distance of Bombay.

On May 5th the foundation of a Free School, on the same plan with that of Calcutta, was laid. The ceremony was numerously attended, and the institution, which has been for some time in activity, though in a hired and inconvenient building, appears very flourishing, and likely to be productive of great good. The plan and elevation of the intended schools, by Lieutenant Jervis of the Engineers, I think a very elegant and judicious one. On the 8th we went to see Elephanta, of which my wife has

given an account in her journal', and of which a more regular description is needless after all which Mr. Erskine and others have written on it. I will only observe that the Island of Elephanta, or Shapooree, is larger and more beautiful than I expected, containing, I should suppose, upwards of a thousand acres, a good deal of which is in tillage, with a hamlet of tolerable size, but the major part is very beautiful wood and rock, being a double-pointed hill, rising from the sea to some height. The stone elephant, from which the usual Portuguese name of the Island is derived, stands in a field about a quarter of a mile to the right of the usual landing-place. It is about three times as big as life, rudely sculptured, and very much dilapidated by the weather. The animal on its back, which Mr. Erskine supposes to be a tyger, has no longer any distinguishable shape. From the landing-place, a steep and narrow path, but practicable for palanqueens, leads up the hill, winding prettily through woods and on the brinks of precipices, so as very much to remind me of Hawkstone. About half a mile up is the first cave, which is a sort of portico supported by two pillars and two pilasters, and seeming as if intended for the entrance to a rock temple which has not been proceeded in. A quarter of a mile further, and two-thirds of the ascent up the higher of the two hills, is the great cavern, in a magnificent situa

a The principal cave is of considerable extent, excavated out of the solid rock, and the roof supported by pillars, now in a state of decay, carved out in the same manner, and handsomely ornamented. The different shrines which contain the emblems of Hindoo worship are placed on either side, and, generally, their entrances are guarded by colossal bas-relief figures, whilst on the walls are sculptured figures of Siva and his wife Parvati, the former in one compartment with a chaplet of skulls round his neck, and with eight hands, bearing his usual attributes of the Cobra de Capello, also of colossal size, and some of the avatars of Vishnu, and other mythological fables of their religion. Even now the whole is sadly defaced, and though an European sergeant has been for some years appointed to preserve it from injury by man, the climate does its work of devastation slowly but surely, and it appears probable that at no very distant period little will remain to shew what this temple had been in the days of its glory. The view from the mouth of the cavern is very beautiful. Although we were out during the hottest hours of the day, in one of the worst months, we never were much oppressed by the heat. In Bengal such an excursion could not have been contemplated.Extract from Editor's Journal.

« PreviousContinue »