now only fields and sand hills and hovels. Near it is Luxor, inhabited, alive. Here the party is received. They view the ruins with curious eye and and many thoughts of a past full of wealth, enterprise and art. Forty minutes from Luxor is Karnak, another wonder of the world, whose temple was built B. C. 3000. It is a part of Thebes, and the most magnificent of Egyptian ruined temples, whose inscriptions read like enchantment, whose proportions suggest the work of gods.

Thence to Assouan, the frontier station of old Egypt and the turning point of the Nile journey. It is the great Egyptian quarry whence the mighty stones for obelisk and temple and tomb came, and the point where all the trade between lower Egpyt and Ethiopia changed hands in the olden time. Then a jaunt is taken to Phila, renowned for temple ruins and beautiful amid trees, also a source of the great monumental stones which Egyptian kings erected to commemorate their wealth, power, wisdom and folly. On February 3d, Memphis was

reached, in sight of Cairo.

Its serapeum, tombs, and other

ruins were visited with feelings of awe and wonder.

Now the journey of a thousand miles on the Nile, in the land of the sun, amid desert waste and historic ruin, among a people as quaint as those of Pharaoh's time, was done. A few days are spent in Cairo for rest. By February 9th, the party is at Port Said where the good ship "Vandalia" meets them. They embark, and are once more under the American flag, though far from home.

The ship sailed to Jaffa, where Solomon gathered his cedars from Lebanon and Simon Peter took ship to carry the gospel to foreign lands, now a town of no commercial importance and filled with greasy howling Arabs. They were on the sacred shores of Palestine, and amid scenes endeared to every Christian heart. Dirty and spiritless as the town was, there was a show of welcome to the illustrious American. It is forty miles to Jerusalem, and thither the party proceeded by wagon, mule

back, and other clumsy conveyance, and under the escort of the conventional eastern dragomen. A stop is made at Ramleh, home of Joseph of Arimathea. The plains of Sharon give way to the rougher country of Joshua and Sampson. Gezer is passed, and Kirjath Jearim, where the ark rested for twenty years, and Joshua's Valley of Ajalon, and then the last ravine this side of Jerusalem where David and Goliath engaged in deadly duel. A large delegation came thither to welcome the party to Jerusalem. It was headed by the American Consul, Mr. Wilson, who claimed to be the first editor in America to nominate General Grant for the Presidency. And now the concourse, a medley of all nationalities, speaking every language, dressed in all costumes, mounted in every style, representative of nothing save the central desire to make the guests and themselves happy, passed back into the city of David through highways lined with curious people, under the archways of Tancred's gate, by the walls of David's tower, up to a small hotel surrounded by bazaars and markets, which is to be headquarters.

The Pacha, the various consuls, the bishops and patriarchs, called on the General, and gave State dinners in his honor. The ceremonies were profuse and well nigh endless. All points of interest, Calvary, Ecce Homo Church, The Holy Sepulchre, Valley of Jehoshaphat, Kedron, Gethsemane were visited, and afterwards Bethlehem. Then from the high peaks of the surroundings a view was taken of the rough, picturesque country which lowers toward the Dead Sea, beyond which is Pisgah, and north of which is the Lake of Galilee.

Back to Jaffa, ship is taken for Smyrna, which is reached on February 21st. Thence to Ephesus, where St, Paul preached, and then up the Dardanelles to Constantinople, where a royal welcome is extended. General Grant paid a formal visit to the Sultan, who received him most cordially, and ordered the Master of Ceremonies to present the General with an Arabian

horse from the Imperial stables. The horse was not sent in time and the General sailed without it. The matter was revived, and the horse, together with another of equal value, was sent to the American Legation. They were shipped to the United States on board the merchant steamer "Norman Monarch," reached this country in safety, and were exhibited at the Pennsylvania State Agricultural Fair, in Philadelphia, in September, 1879.

By this time it is March 5th, 1878. The sights, receptions, and ceremonial engagements keep the party at Stamboul for a brief while, when sail is set for Athens, where the General meets with a flattering reception, at the hands of the United States Minister, General J. M. Read, and numerous participants, among whom are the King and Queen. The Parthenon was illuminated in honor of the American General, an event of rare occurrence. All the scenes of this historic city were studied, and the visit was extended to Marathon and other decisive battle-fields.

Then the journey turned toward Rome, the Imperial City. Here special courtesies were extended by King Humbert, by Cardinal McCloskey, then present, by Pope Leo XIII., as well as by other dignitaries, native and foreign. The visiting took in the Coliseum, St. Peter's, the arches of Titus and Constantine, the Lateran, the museums, the Vatican, and all places of historic moment. The visit terminated on April 15th, by a magnificent state dinner given by King Humbert in honor of the ex-President of the United States, at which the entire Italian ministry were present.

Fair Florence was reached on April 20th, where the General went through the ordeal of frequent honorary entertainments, finding time meanwhile to visit the superb galleries, treasures of ancient and modern art, to drive over the magnificent ways which encircle this city of beauty, and even to make an excursion to Pisa, famed for its leaning tower.

A

great party of citizens gathered at the depot to wish the General and his companions a safe journey to Venice.

The reception at Venice, participated in by natives and foreigners alike, was hearty and demonstrative. This city of canals was wonderfully full of interest to the travelers, as it is to all lovers of the new and beautiful, the quaint and historic. St. Mark, the Rialto, the Bridge of Sighs, the arsenal, the various churches, the monuments, the art galleries, the gondolas, kept the party interested for nearly a week.

On April 27th, Milan was visited, where the General was received by a deputation of Italian officers and notables, many of whom had been in service with him during the sad days of our own Civil War. Here the Duorno, and St. Peter's, the temple of music, and the hundred places of beauty in art and interest in history, kept them for several days.

On the 7th of May, the General arrived in Paris again, so as to attend the opening ceremonies of the International Exhibition. This second visit was a continual round of honorary receptions, participated in by dignitaries and crowned heads from nearly every principality in Europe. Leave-taking was an escape from ceaseless fete and grand occasion, especially as the destination was old fashioned, sedate Holland, that wonderful living place which is said to be a compromise between the land and sea, the country of canaux-canards— canals and ducks. They are now in the flats, the Netherlands, where the sea is kept out by banks, and where the busiest, most careful, cleanliest, most economical and patient people on the face of the earth find an existence. An imposing reception meets them at the Hague, the court Capitol, which is followed by a grand military review. Prince Frederick, the king's uncle, gives a royal entertainment at the "House in the Woods," where has been collected the finest display of Japanese curiosities in the world. And then there are public demonstrations without number among these undemonstra