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THE

AMERICAN MAGAZINE.

VOL. VIII.

AUGUST, 1888.

No. 4.

ALONG THE CARIBBEAN.

IV. THE ISLAND OF THE TRINITY.

BY DR. WILLIAM F. HUTCHINSON.

AST in the chain of jewels by which the sea has joined the North and South American countries; largest and most brilliant of these shining gems, Trinidad ends the girdle that may have clasped longlost Atlantis to more recent shores.

Still in the distance, drawn clear against a cloudless sky, three lofty peaks rise side by side from lower beauties to tell the story of our island's name; and still the traveller approaching this lovely land exclaims in whatever tongue he speaks, as did Columbus in musical Castilian, "Que isla gloriosa!"

From whatever point the shore is neared-if from the east, where a thousand leagues of sea divide it from nearest land, or from the north, from amidst smaller islands whose more modest size enhances the beauty of their largest gem --he, in whose memory yet lingers souvenirs of inclement days and bitter nights of cold that make its balmy warmth yet more delicious, will not fail to give the olden verdict: "a land of ravishing beauty."

strait we sail through to a hundred yards, beyond which another sea stretches its serene welcome toward us from encircling shores so far distant to the south as to be lost in Venezuelan sky. Not one, but many of these openings cleave the ring of land that holds confined this inner lagoon, this great lake that is called the Gulf of Paria. The Spaniards called them Bocas, or mouths, adding such names as circumstances suggested, as Monos, from the monkeys that then peopled these hills, or Navios, where ships could go, or Grande-the largest of them all; and these names have never been changed. Through these passages a swift tide plays terrible pranks upon ships that, driven by sails alone, dare its power, and the bones of one gallant East Indiaman, from among the rest that have vanished, still mark the dangers of the Boca de Navios.

To the left, a range of peaks that are high enough to be visible a great distance, stretches along the northern coast until lost in the horizon, and on their southern face, deep valleys show like black lines on the green. Swell follows swell, mountain succeeds mountain in blue perspective that grows nearer as we sail, until, having fairly entered the ring we advance upon Trinidad, and watch

The harbor entrance is dramatic. On either side are lofty hills that narrow the Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1888, by The American Magazine Publishing Co., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. All rights reserved.

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its lovely outlines develop and assume definite forms of palms, of distant signal towers, of solitary white-walled houses on island or on cliff, of a confused mass of red roofs and climbing spires, of a crowd of ships at anchor with steamboats puffing about amongst them, until at last we too stop before Port of Spain, its modern capital, and prepare to study the land of humming birds, Iere, as the Caribs called it.

A corresponding acquaintance with Sir William Robinson, the distinguished Governor, had prepared me to meet a gentleman of literary ability, full of interest in his colony and a skilled diplomat; but the personal courtesy and hearty welcome that I received as a representative of THE AMERICAN MAGAZINE were as unexpected as grateful. By his aid, Mr. Warden Johnstone, being at once detailed to escort me about the island, I was enabled to make every hour of my three weeks stay of use, and visit points that are generally inaccessible to a tourist who has not at least as many months at his disposal. To the Governor, there fore, and to his active and tireless warden, the readers of this article, with myself, are much indebted.

It is but a little way from Barbadosonly thirty hours by Royal Mail, and much less by direct steamer being needed to make the journey; but a thousand leagues could not more effectually separate the two islands in every respect, save climate, than these few miles of sunny sea.

Trinidad is entirely under white control, and its black population is balanced by East Indian competition; the latter now numbering some 65,000, having been brought in as a necessity of life to cultivate the land. What with various castes of Hindoos, with Mohammedans, with blacks and their composites, and with a large Spanish element, there is need of a firm, strong government, exactly such as has been wisely formed in Trinidad.

Divided into counties and boroughs instead of parishes as in Barbados, State, instead of Church, holds the reins, although a government grant assists every religious denomination with impartiality; the Roman Catholic Church, for example, receiving in 1885 a sum almost double that of the Church of England

on account of its preponderance in membership.

The Governor is assisted in his arduous work by a legislative council composed of six departmental chiefs and eight unofficial members who are appointed by the Queen upon recommendation of his Excellency. These latter gentlemen are selected from among representative natives, and by long acquaintance with the country as well as by large interests and education are well qualified for their position. Meetings are held monthly, or upon summons from the governor in case of emergency.

Education is carefully attended to, and Mr. Cozzens, from whose guide-book I quote, states that "on the 30th of June, 1886, there were under inspection one hundred and twenty-two schools, affording instruction to twelve thousand, two hundred and eighty-five scholars ❞—an excellent showing. He adds: “Speaking from experience I can truly say that a teacher's life is not a happy one. If he has an elementary school, the chances are that half his pupils, perhaps even a larger proportion, never hear a word of English in their homes. Patois may prevail, French, Spanish, Hindustani or Chinese-anything rather than English." Yet English alone is employed in tuition in these schools, which I found well conducted and prosperous, black children holding their own with whites up to a certain age, then falling rapidly behind.

The climate, during those months when strangers visit there, is simply unsurpassed. Lacking, perhaps, some of the advantages that Barbados possesses in sweep of pure air and dryness of surface, it is nevertheless one eternal summer from which even passing storms are banished. For winter months are dry months, and brilliant days follow shining nights with undisturbed regularity. Said I to a resident one lovely morning, as we watched the sunrise over Naparrima Hills: "What splendid weather!" "What did you say? Splendid weather? Of course it is, my dear fellow; we never have anything else at this time of the year; but it is so long since I heard that subject spoken of, that it startled me."

Every morning at six, the mercury marked 72 degrees-gradually mounting until two P. M., the hottest part of the

day, when the average was 85 degrees, then falling with the sun back to night mark. People are matinal hereabouts, and early coffee following the bath is usually served at halfpast six, with bread or toast and an egg, if desired. With this meal, cares of the day and business are carried on until breakfast, at from ten to eleven, which suffices until dinner at six or seven. Our baths

were everywhere superb In the tropics, where the skin. is busily at work all night and day, absolute freedom from impediment to its functions is an essential to health.

This is universally recognized, and all classes bathe as freely and regularly as they eat.

In place of the box of coffin size and shape that American plumbers give us, our tropical friends plash about in basins eight feet square or more, through which a stream of pure water is always flowing. By its side a shower bath stands ready, and one comes out into the cool morning with a delicious sense of purity and comfort, a skin as soft and smooth as silk, and a readiness for breakfast that is not known in northern climates-where pores are sealed by cold, where indoor air is a mixture of carbonic acid and outdoor breathing chills one's very bones.

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Clad in lightest pajamas, the loose night jacket and trowsers that have come from India to be at home in every region of the sun, men loll about an hour before dressing, enjoying the delight that mere living brings in the delicious climate.

In the courtyard of my hotel there were flowers that came out fresh with every sunrise, and added their perfume to the sweetness of the morning air; and the faces that greeted the new day were as bright as if they had absorbed some of their shining life.

With the hottest hours came rest: Not perforce, however, for outdoor labor goes on all day, and many do not stop their work at profession or business while daylight lasts. I watched some men putting a new iron roof upon a building opposite the hotel, and when the day was hottest they steadily worked on in open sun, unconscious of discomfort. Gentlemen came to call, dressed in black broadcloth and silk hats, which they wore, they told me, the year round; and after a week, I myself grew indifferent to heat. Sunstrokes, heat fevers,

are unknown, and a little custom soon makes anyone bear the highest temperature well.

At four in the afternoon, business of all kinds is done. Stores close, offices are vacated, and everyone goes in for rest. Driving is in order; and with fine

thing else; although most Trinidadians are tri-lingual, speaking English, Spanish and French with facile and equal readiness.

But all circles are open to accredited foreigners, and warm-hearted, cordial Invitations to hospitality is unlimited. breakfast, to dinner and to dance come fast to those who have the entrée, and it is rare that he takes a meal at home. At these assemblages he will find no difference in his surroundings or fellow-guests from similar salons in New York, or Paris, or London; except, perhaps, that there is a greater profusion of flowers. Knowing each other well, there is less formality than in great cities, where most are strangers to each other. I dined one evening

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roads and cheap cab rates, almost every one takes a spin until dinner time.

Nothing is more singular to a new-comer than the sudden appearance of nightfall. Of course, every one has read that tropical lands know no twilight, but it is none the less odd to have lights prepared while yet it is broad day, and to find

GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ST. ANNE'S.

that night is come before one has become at Government House, the pleasant home aware of its approach.

The sun's rim dips, the stars peep out,
And, with a stride, comes on the dark.

Society in Port of Spain is varied and good. There are several circles whose lines are drawn by nationality, and they do not mingle; as much, I think, on account of difference of language as any

of Sir William Robinson, which is said to be one of the handsomest of colonial official residences. Among the guests were the British Admiral, commanding the fleet, the officer commanding the land forces, a couple of members of the Governor's Council and a few ladies.

The table was decorated in exquisite taste by the hostess herself, with dainty

flowers and ferns, and the cuisine was priest himself, stepped forth and stood excellent.

Only a few minutes were taken for a smoke after the ladies had retired, when we joined them in the handsome drawing-room for music and chat. Lady Robinson sang like a trained artiste, with a voice of rare sweetness, and a gentleman whose name I do not recall, but whose face was as flexible and expressive as Irving's, also sang in a voice that exactly fitted his face; it was so full of wrinkles. So with chat and song, and smoke outside, the hours passed until eleven, when every one retired. Such dinners, with a shade less ceremony, followed each other almost every day, with a result of making and cementing friendships that would have been mere acquaintance in the wider circles of larger lands.

No one could need to be better housed than at the Family Hotel, with its cosy table d'hote and central position, or at Madame Louise's Hotel de Paris, with its fine cuisine and native dishes. There are several others of the same class, and the regular price is two dollars a day for everything except wine; and arrangements by the month can be made at even lower rates.

A few days, however, were all that I could give of the limited time at my disposition to Port of Spain, and Mr. Johnstone, called by all his friends Bobby, for short, came to me one morning early to start to the Blue Basin, the first of our excursions.

We drove out of town through the village of Perou, where Hindu and Moslem heathen have built their houses and a temple, and where they have per manently established religion, home and household gods. One might have been in a street out of Bombay or Madras. There was the same straight white road bordered with scanty palms, behind which a jungle grew close, the same rows of Eastern huts with brass cooking utensils outside, the same quiet, brighteyed, clean featured and straighthaired coolies, with submissive "Salaam, Sahib," and the same octagonal temple covered with inscriptions in characters of the Hindustani tongue. And answering to my invitation to come out and be photographed, the Baba-jee, the high

before his temple in flowing robes of white, with lines denoting his high rank drawn on forehead and on arm. A stately, grave and dignified man, disdaining curiosity, yet willing to be obliging, he would have made a model, so far as courteous politeness went, for many who claim superiority of race.

Leaving Perou, the road lay through forests and cane-fields, past little villages and solitary estates, almost every one having some story belonging to it. Near the valley of the cascade we came to see, a lonely cross and cairn marked the spot where a priest was murdered not long before. We had just passed a comfortable house almost hidden by climbing vines and flowering trees; that was the home of a man who had been arrested, tried and acquitted of the crime, although suspicion, which he took no care to dispel, hung round him still.

As the story went, he had long suspected the priest of more than spiritual relations with his wife, and determined to kill him. So one dark night, a message came to the holy man, demanding his services for a sick person, a call no clergyman ever refused, and the priest started on foot across the cane-field. When he reached the spot now marked, he was attacked by some one armed with a machete or heavy cutlass, and literally chopped to pieces. And," added my raconteur, "the negroes see his ghost hereabouts at regular intervals." This road seems to have been particularly favored in grim tragedy. Within a couple of miles from the priest's cross, I was shown a house where a Scotch planter was shot through his window by a vicious servant, and a lonely bit of land where a coolie chopped his wife up from jealousy.

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But past these gruesome spots, away from tales of human suffering, the path winds upward beside a dancing brook that is outlet for the Blue Basin, until we clamber over some slippery rocks and stand on the brink of the pool.

Through interlacing vines and clinging ferns some sixty feet above, there is a little bit of blue sky showing, from the very centre of which a frightened brook comes sliding down out of daylight into

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