for the most part through monotonous and uninteresting forest to

72 m. Tirapane (R.H.). 4 m. farther, at Galkulama, there is a division in the road. The branch

leading due N. is the direct road to Jaffna through Mihintale; that to the N.W. proceeds in nearly a straight line to

86 m. Anuradhapura (Hotel good) (127 m. from Colombo by rail). The buried city of Ceylon," famous throughout the East for its ancient and extremely interesting ruins-the relics of a civilisation that existed more than 2000 years ago, when the city was the capital of a succession of ancient kings. The city is said to have measured 256 sq. m., i.e., 16 m. in each direction : rather it comprised two cities, one within the other. A motor-car to visit the ruins can be arranged by the manager of the hotel; also the services of licensed guides. Fees due to Guides whole day, Rs.5; half-day, Rs.3. A bicycle is most useful. The traveller who contemplates a thorough examination of the ruins will obtain all necessary information and assistance at the Kachcheri. For such an examination the companionship of Cave's Ruined Cities of Ceylon, Burrows' Buried Cities of Ceylon, Still's Guide to the Ancient Capitals of Ceylon, Mitton's Lost Cities of Ceylon, chaps. iii-ix, and Bell's, Archæological Reports will be useful, though the ordinary traveller will perhaps find the chapter on Ceylon in Fergusson's Eastern Architecture sufficient for him. The hdqrs. of the Archæological Commr. of the Arch. Survey are at Anuradhapura. A certain number of the ruins lie within I m. distance of the hotel, the so-called Brazen Palace and the Bo-Tree being close to it on the E. side, and the Thuparama and Ruanwelli dagobas on the N.E. The larger Jetawanarama

and Abhayagiriya dagobas lie respectively 2 m. and I m. N. and N.E. of the hotel. The accompanying map shows the general disposition of the ruins; they cannot be thoroughly seen in less than two days' time if a visit to Mihintale is included. The city of Anuradhapura was founded by King Pandukabhaya 437 B.C., and called after the name of the constellation Anuradha. It became the capital of Ceylon in the 4th century B.C., and attained its highest magnificence about the commencement of the Christian era. It suffered much during the earlier Tamil invasions, and was finally deserted as a royal residence in the 9th century. A small village has always remained on the site, but it is only since the constitution of the North Central Province, in 1872, by Sir W. Gregory, that any revival has taken place in this much-neglected District. Since that date hundreds of village tanks have been restored; famine and the dreadful disease called parangi (produced by the use of bad water and food) have been driven away, and the population (7781 in 1921), of the town of Anuradhapura, is yearly becoming more prosperous and healthy. The railway which has been made is expected to revivify this moribund part of the island. Steps are being taken to encourage the growth of sisal hemp and food products, particularly rice.

The main objects of interest at Anuradhapura may be divided into Dagobas, Monastic Buildings, and Pokunas or Tanks (see Fergusson's Eastern Architecture, I, 228-243, and Mitton's Lost Cities of Ceylon, chaps. iii-ix).

The Moonstones of Ceylon have been described as unique: they are not the milky-blue" jewels of Ceylon, but are semicircular granite stones, placed at the foot of a flight of entrance steps, and wonderfully carved in concentric

rings, containing processions of animals and floral scrolls of artistic design. Fine specimens are to be seen at Anuradhapura and Polon

nuwara.

The eight Sacred Places held by the Buddhist Community at Anuradhapura are - The Bo-Tree,

Brazen Palace, Abhayagiriya, Jetawanàrama, Lankarama, Miriswetiya, Ruanwelli, Thuparama dagobas-the archæological authorities not being responsible for their preservation.

I. Dagobas. A dagoba is a bell-shaped construction erected over some relic of Buddha or a disciple (see p. xciv). It is always solid, and is surmounted by a cubical structure called the ti, which again is surmounted by a lofty spire. The number of dagobas in Anuradhapura is countless, and they vary in size from the enormous masses of the four great dagobas to tiny objects barely 2 ft. or 3 ft. in diameter. The four chief dagobas are

Its

1. The Ruanwelli Dagoba was a real dagoba, i.e., relic storehouse, commenced by King Dutthagamini, completed about 90 B.C. diameter is 252 ft., but it does not retain its original altitude, having been much injured by the Tamils in different invasions. It is now only 180 ft. in height. The lower part of the structure and the platform on which it stands were cleared about the year 1873, and the' various fragments of the so-called four "chapels " facing the cardinal points were put together and restored. This dagoba is being restored by the Buddhists.

In 1910 and 1911 a large portion of the restoration work of this dagoba collapsed during the rainy season, but the restoration work is continued as vigorously as ever.

2. The Abhayagiriya (Mount of Safety), the largest dagoba of all, was begun by King Mahasena, 275-292 A.D., or 302 A.D. Its

diameter is 327 ft., and its height when perfect was about 270 ft. It has now lost a great part of the pinnacle, and its present height is only about 260 ft. It stands on a grand paved platform, eight acres in extent, raised, some feet above the surrounding enclosure. The enormous mass of bricks in this structure baffles conception. Sir Emerson Tennent calculates that they are sufficient to construct a town of the size of Ipswich or Coventry, or to build a wall 10 ft. high from London to Edinburgh. The ti on the summit having shown symp. toms of falling, it and what remained of the stump of the spire above it have been put into a thoroughly safe condition by the Ceylon Government, but the lower part remains untouched. It was erected in the 1st century B.C. The summit can now be easily reached, and commands a magnificent view.

3. The Jetawanarama, built in the 4th century A.D., was of about the same dimensions as the Abhayagiriya. It has been suggested, with some probability, that the names of these two dagobas have been transposed, possibly from the 12th century. The Buddhist Atamasthama Committee allowed a Buddhist monk to make

improvements on the dagoba;

after he had felled all the trees and done more harm than good, the Archæological Commissioners took over the ruin in 1910, to save it. Supposing that Jetawanarama is the ancient Abhayagiriya, its foundation is dated 88 B.C., and its enlargement 113-125 A.D.

4. The Miriswetiya was built by King Dutthagamini in the 2nd century B.C., and rebuilt in the reign of Kasyapa V. It is surrounded by monastery ruins on three sides. Though smaller than the Jetawanarama, it is remarkable for the unusually fine sculpture of its chapels,' or shrines, of the Dhyani Buddhas. It has been

partly restored at the expense of the late King of Siam.

Among the minor dagobas, the Thuparama and Lankarama (both described by Mitton), the latter surrounded by three and the first by four circles of carved columns, are among the most remarkable and most elegant. These columns are a special feature of Ceylon dagobas.

The ruined Dalada Maligawa, or Temple of the Tooth, should not be overlooked. The toothrelic, about 2 inches in length, and like a man's little finger in thickness and shape, is said to have been brought to Ceylon by a Brahman princess, to have been removed for safety when Tamil raids occurred, and to have had many wanderings until it reached Kandy.

II. The remains of Monastic Buildings are to be found in every direction in the shape of raised stone platforms, foundations, and stone pillars. The walls themselves between the pillars, being of brick, have disappeared. One of the most remarkable of these remains consists of 1600 stone pillars about 12 ft. high and only a few feet distant from each other, arranged in forty parallel rows. These formed the lowest storey of the famous nine-storeyed "Brazen Palace," or monastery, erected by King Dutthagamani 161 B.C., or IOI B.C., nine storeys high (reduced to seven) as described in the Mahawansa. It may have been the nucleus of the Mahavihara, or Chief Monastery of the town; the upper storeys were no doubt of wood. The clusters of pillars and of platforms of pavilions in every direction for 10 m. are innumerable. Among the most remarkable is one called the Queen's Pavilion, the semicircular doorstep of which is carved with a double procession of animals and studies of flowers.

III. The Pokunas are bathing

a

But there is one object of interest in Anuradhapura which does not come under these heads, the sacred Pipal or Bo-Tree (Ficus religiosa)—originally brought from Buddh Gaya (p. 54) and though only a fragment now remains, probably the oldest historical tree existing. It was originally brought by the sister of Mahinda, the Princess Sanghamitta, as branch of the bo-tree under which Buddha sat at Buddh Gaya, and planted about 240 B.C. (also dated 288 B.C.). From that time to this it has been watched over by an uninterrupted succession of guardians. It stands on a small terraced mound, and is surrounded The by a number of descendants. adjacent buildings are all modern, but the entrance to the enclosure possesses a fine semicircular doorstep or moonstone."

Some fine bronze statues found at Anuradhapura in 1908 are now in the Colombo Museum.

Another object of interest not to be omitted is the Rock Temple at Isurumuniya, carved in the solid rock, with a large seated Buddha inside and sculptures in low relief on the terraces.

The large tanks of Nuwarawewa, Tissawewa, and Basawakulam, the two latter of which are filled from Kalawewa, have restored to the neighbourhood of Anuradhapura some of its former fertility.

Other objects of interest at Anuradhapura and in the neighbourhood are--the English Church, the Peacock Palace, a vihara W. of

Ruanwelli, a mahapali or alms Hall, the Selachaitiya dagoba, rockdwellings (galgé, etc.), the so-called Elephant Stables (with the guardstone), the King's Palace, the Kuttam (=twin) Pokuna, the Pankuliya monastery, Vijayarama, Yantragalas (square stones with holes), Elala's tomb, Vessagiriya monastery (a town in itself), groups of buildings on the Arippu Road, the Kiribat dagoba, the Mullegalla and Puliyankulam monasteries.

8 m. E. of Anuradhapura is Mihintale (R.H.) a centre of Buddhist pilgrimage. (A motor-coach from Anuradhapura to Trincomalee passes Mihintale, or a conveyance can be obtained at the Hotel). It is a rocky hill crowned with a large dagoba, and literally covered with the remains of temples and hermitages. Ancient and picturesque stairs of many hundred steps lead to the summit, whence there is a very fine view over the forest plain, from which the great dagobas of Anuradhapura stand up like the pyramids or natural hills. The centre of attraction at Mihintale is. Mahinda's Bed, the undoubted cell occupied by Mahinda (son of the great King Asoka) the apostle of Buddhism in Ceylon, in the reign of King Dewanampia Tissa, and containing the stone couch on which he lay. Beside it is the Ambasthala dagoba, erected on the traditional spot where King Dewanampia Tissa met the missionary Mahinda. On the summit is the Mahaseya dagoba. An idea prevails that the cell is difficult of access. This is not so. The view from the interior of the cell, in itself fine, is rendered more so by the position from which it is obtained between the rocks which overhang the "bed."

Mihintale has various objects to be visited, such as the Alms Hall, the Half-way House, the open-air Lion Bath, the stone boats, Giribandha dagoba, Naga pokuna, Ambasthala dagoba (where the

95 m. from Kandy (by direct road through Mihintale) Medawachchiya (R.H.) (see p. 682). *

From here a road leads N.W. to (52 m.) Mannar (R.H.), passing the Giant's Tank and the magnificent masonry dam which diverts the Aruvi Aru to fill it. From Medawachchiya a railway, 65 m. long, runs parallel with the road to Talaimannar, at the N.W. point of that island, forming the Ceylon connection of the through route with India, viâ Rameswaram and Pamban (p. 599). Passengers are conveyed from Talaimannar to (22 m.) Dhanuskodi by a steamer of the S.I. Railway. Mannar is a dreary spot, commanded by a picturesque old Dutch fort, and only remarkable for the number of the African Baobabs, which grow freely there, having probably been imported by Arabs in the Middle Ages. The church in the Fort contains some 16th-century Portuguese tombstones.

.Due S. of Mannar, and half way between it and Puttalam, is Marichchukaddi, the scene of the camp for the Pearl Fishery in 1905, when the enormous number of 50 millions of oysters was fished. The Banks" lie mostly in the Gulf of Mannar at a depth of about 7 fathoms: The Pearl Banks of Ceylon have excited the cupidity of the nations of all ages from the Phoenicians onwards. There is a large literature on the subject. The enquirer is referred to the modern monograph on the subject by Mr James Hornell