tion (D.B.) for the line to Havelian, and station for the ruins of Taxila (ancient Takshasila). Refreshment and waiting-rooms at station and small P.W.D. Bungalow about 1 m. away, permission to occupy which may be obtained from the Executive Engineer, Rawalpindi District. Near the station is the Archæological Office, where permits can be had to view the excavations. (See Guide to Taxila, by Sir John Marshall, 1921, obtainable at the Office.) The remains of Taxila lie to the E. of the railway and are spread over an area of some 25 sq. m. Besides other monuments they comprise three distinct cities. The earliest of these is situated on the Bhir mound (at the N. end of which stand the Archæo logical Office and bungalow), and was in occupation probably from the second or third millennium B.C. until about 180 B.C. The second city, known as Sirkap, is on the further side of the Tamra Nala (Tibero-nalo or Tibero-potamos of the Greek historians), and appears to have been built by the Greeks and to have been occupied successively by the Greeks, the Scythians, the Parthians and the early Kushans. The third city, now called Sirsukh, about 1 m. N.E. of Sirkap, was probably_founded by the Great Kushan Emperor Kanishka (2nd century A.D.) and flourished for some five centuries or more. was in this city that the Chinese pilgrim, Hiuen Thsang, sojourned and from it that the distances and directions to the various monuments described by him are calculated. Besides these three cities, to each of which the name of Taxila (Takshasila) was transferred in succession, various other outlying monuments have been excavated, the most important among them being the Dharmarajika Stupa near the village of Shahpur, on the S. side of the Hathial spur, a massive temple It with Ionic pillars at Jandial, and two groups of Buddhist buildings, the one in a defile in the hills near the village of Mohra Moradu, about 1 m. S.E. of Sirsukh, and the other on a hill near the village of Jaulian, about twenty minutes' walk from it. To visit all the remains now brought to light at Taxila two days are required. The roads are metalled, and are suitable for motor-cars. A Bareilly "cart can generally be obtained at Saraikala, but it is advisable to arrange for it in advance. In this and other matters the Overseer of the Archæological Bungalow gives whatever assistance he can. Assuming that a visitor has only five or six hours to spare, a good plan is to drive to the Dharmarajika Stupa, thence walk (about 1 m.) through a defile in the hills to the stupa of Kunala, and afterwards descend into the city of Sirkap. The conveyance can meanwhile go round to the N. side of Sirkap, and having rejoined it the visitor can drive to the Temple of Jandial, and thence to Mohra Moradu and Jaulian. The remains at the Chir Tope (ancient name Dharmarajika stupa) comprise a large number of Buddhist stupas, chapels and monastic dwellings. In the centre is the Main Stupa, erected in the 1st century B.C., but subsequently enlarged and repaired. The decorative stone facing on the E. side dates from about the 4th century. Around the main edifice there originally stood a circle of small stupas, but, as they fell to decay, a series of chapels was constructed on their ruins, and numerous other stupas and chapels were erected round about, with a monastery (not yet excavated) to the N. The buildings on this site are of special antiquarian interest, as they are constructed in various styles of masonry, and as their relative ages have been ascertained they offer reliable data for fixing the age of many other monuments in this part of India. Among them the visitor should notice in particular the chapel in the N.E. corner with the remnants of a colossal figure of the Buddha which once stood between 30 ft. and 40 ft. in height, a small apsidal temple on the W. side of the Main Stupa, and a chapel not far from it, where relics of the Buddha, accompanied by an inscription on a silver scroll (of the year 136), were discovered. The Stupa of Kunala is said to have commemorated the spot where Kunala, the son of the Emperor Asoka and Viceroy of Taxila, had his eyes put out through the guile of his step-mother Tishyarakshita. The story, which resembles that of Phædra and Hippolytus, is told by Hiuen Thsang. The original monument on this site is only about 10 ft. in height, and can be seen emerging from the core of the larger structure on its W. side. It dates probably from the 1st century A.D.; the larger structure was built around it in the 4th century A.D. and extended over the ruins of the an cient city wall. An exceptional feature of this later stupa is the inward curvature of the wallsan idea which was perhaps borrowed from the Greeks but misapplied. Immediately to the W. of the stupa is a spacious monastery. From the Kunala stupa a fine bird's-eye view can be obtained of the lower city of Sirkap and the broad Haro Valley beyond. The monument about 5 m. distant on the last spur of the hills bounding the valley on the N., is the famous Stupa of the Head-gift, now known as the Bhallar stupa, in the monastery belonging to which Kumaralabda composed his Buddhist treatise. The remains excavated in Sirkap comprise the main street running N. and S., with the forti fications at its N. end and a variety of buildings separated by lanes laid out with considerable regularity. The buildings now visible on the surface belong mainly to the Parthian and early Kushan period. Beneath them are other buildings of the Scythian period and below these again others of the Greek period. Among the latest remains are a number of houses, several small shrines, believed to be Jaina, a large Buddhist apsidal temple, and a palace closely resembling in plan the palaces of Assyria. The houses were two- or three-storeyed and divided into several open courts, with a series of chambers around each. Their size suggests that they were occupied either by several families or by professors with their numerous pupils, for Taxila was the most famous seat of learning in ancient India and attracted students from far and near. A curious feature of the houses, which is noticed also by Philostratus in his Life of Apollonius, is that the rooms on the lowest floor are in the nature of tahkhanas, access to which was provided by trap-doors from the chambers above. Large numbers of antiquities, including all sorts of domestic utensils, have been found in the buildings. Noteworthy among them are an Aramaic inscription of about 400 B.C., a head in silver of the Greek god Dionysus, a bronze statue of Harpocrates, the Egyptian child-god of silence, and a fine collection of gold jewellery, including good specimens of Greek workmanship. The Temple at Jandial dates from about the beginning of the Christian era, and is planned like a Greek temple, with the addition of a solid tower or ziggurat between the naos and opisthodomos, from which the rising and setting sun could be observed. This and other considerations (notably, the absence of images) point to the con clusion that it was a temple of the Zoroastrian fire-worshippers, who must have been numerous at Taxila during the Scythic and Parthian periods. It is possible that this is the temple described by Philostratus where Apollonius is said to have waited before entering the city of Taxila, though it does not tally with his descriptions in all particulars. The Buddhist stupas and monasteries at Mohra Moradu and Jaulian are the best-preserved monuments of their kind and age in India. Those at Mohra Moradu were first erected in the 2nd century A.D., but largely renovated and repaired two or three centuries later; it is to the later period that the images and reliefs which adorn the walls belong. The monastery was two-storeyed and consisted of a spacious court surrounded by cells, with several additional chambers on its E. side. One of the latter served as a bath-room and another as a refectory. In one of the cells of the larger court is a perfect specimen of a stupa, with all its umbrellas complete, and in the same court are several interesting groups of stucco figures. The main stupa to the W. of the monastery is chiefly remarkable for the masterly stucco reliefs of the Buddha and his attendants, which still survive on its S. side. From it a charming view is obtained of the Mohra Moradu gorge and valley of the Haro below. The remains at Jaulian are of the same character as those of Mohra Moradu, but the stupa is enclosed by courts surrounded by a series of chapels, and there are numerous smaller stupas adorned with a wealth of stucco reliefs. On the other hand, none of the sculptures here is so masterly as that at Mohra Moradu. In one of the smaller stupas (to the S. of the main edifice) was discovered a remarkable relic casket of lime plaster, painted and studded with gems. Among the antiquities found in the monastery was a half-charred manuscript of birch bark. 209 m. by rail from Lahore is Hassan Abdal station (D.B.), famous for the so-called Lalla Rookh's tomb, which is close by; also on account of the spring of Baba Wali, or, as the Sikhs call it, Panja Sahib. Baba Wali was a Musalman saint, and one version of the legend is that Baba Nanak, the founder and Guru of the Sikhs, had a dispute with Baba Wali, and summoned the spring from the top to the bottom of the hill by placing his hand on the rock and invoking it. (The impression of Guru Nanak's hand is said to have remained ever since, and at one end of the tank there is a rude representation of a hand in relief on a rock, from underneath which the water flows into the tank.) This is one of those attractive places to which each religion in succession has attached its legends, and it has been appropriated in turn by Buddhist, Brahman, Muhammadan, and Sikh. The shrine of the Musalman saint Pir Wali Kandahari is on the peak of a lofty and precipitous hill, at the N.W. foot of which numerous springs of limpid water gush out of the ground. The Panja Sahib is at the E. entrance to the town, on the right hand, about m. from the D.B. The road to it through the town passes through roughly - paved streets, and then leads down to a clear, rapid brook, crossed by stepping-stones. A Sikh temple has been constructed at the tank, which is a beautiful pool of water canopied with mulberry and pipaltrees of large size, and full of mahsir, some of them as big as a 15-lb. salmon. The walk now leads some 250 yds. along the stream, past some ruins of Jahan 1 The last poem in Lalla Rookh, that of the "Fair Nurmahal," was recited by the disguised Prince at Hassan Abdal. gir, and past another pool, to Lalla Rookh's tomb, which is very plain, and stands in a garden surrounded by a wall, with four slim towers, one at each corner; the enclosure is well filled with trees, amongst which is a cypress more than 50 ft. high. From Hassan Abdal to Abbottabad (D.B.), 44 m. by metalled road; viâ Havelian. This is the motor road to Abbottabad. (See Chap. I., Topee and Turban, by Lt.-Col. Newell, 1921.) Abbottabad is a pretty hill station, about 4000 ft. in elevation, the headquarters of a brigade of Gurkha Infantry and Mountain Artillery. There is a metalled road through Abbottabad to Kashmir, via Domel, and, though there is no regular tonga service, the journey can be performed by tonga, if ordered in advance, or by motor. A branch line of the N.W.R. runs from Taxila Jn. on the main line to Havelian, 9 m. from Abbottabad. The shortest route to Abbottabad is now by motor cab, lorry or tonga from Havelian. The name of Abbottabad is derived from Major James Abbott, who (1849-53) pacified the district on its first annexation. At Haripur, 20 m. from Hassan Abdal, is a memorial to Colonel Canara, who was killed defending his guns against the Sikh insurgents in 1848. The following hill stations are reached from Abbottabad by roads not practicable for wheeled traffic: tained by applying 10 days in advance to the Contractor at Abbottabad. 230 m. by rail from Lahore is Campbellpur. There is a Cantonment here. Campbellpur is also the headquarters of the Attock district, and on the line to Kundian (p. 330). 241 m. by rail from Lahore is Attock Bridge station (D.B.), 1 m. below the town and fort. Attock is a small town and fortress of former military importance. The railway crosses the Indus by a very fine Iron Girder Bridge, which was difficult to construct, owing to the rapidity of the current and the height above the water. The rails are on the top of the girders, and there is a passage for road traffic below. Each end is protected by a fortified gate. The river has been known to rise 90 ft. in flood near the fort, where the channel becomes very narrow. It The Fort, situated on a commanding height, overhanging the E. bank of the Indus, and a little to the S. of the point where it receives the Kabul River on the W. bank, is very extensive, and has a most imposing appearance. was built by the Emperor Akbar in 1586, who also established the ferry which it commands. Maharaja Ranjit Singh occupied the place in 1813, and it remained in the hands of the Sikhs till the British conquest of 1849. It is now held by a small European detachment. Leave can be obtained to walk round the ramparts; this is well worth doing on account of the picturesque views to be obtained, which extend N.W. as far as the distant peaks of the Safed Koh. To the N. of the fort is an old sarai, now in ruins. A ravine to the S. divides the sarai from the higher hill on which the fort stands, |