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fare of the city, Abdur Rah

Parel Street. Near the point

manufacture of brass and copper pots and other utensils. The man Street. continued N. by Copper Bazar, opposite the Mombadevi Tank, is the busiest and noisiest, and one of the most delightful streets." The black wood-carving is famous, as is the sandal-wood and other carving; the term Bombay Boxes includes sandal - wood carving as well as inlay work. Tortoise-shell carving is a spécialité, also lacquered turnery. Gold and silver thread is manufactured and used for lace, and Bombay embroidery is much prized. The Bombay School of Pottery, under the guidance of Mr George Terry, has developed two original varieties of glazed pottery.

In Bellasis Road, Byculla, also, are the Arab Stables, well worth a visit in the early morning, not only for the sake of viewing some of the finest horses in the East, but to see the Arabs themselves who bring them to Bombay for sale. The stables of the importers of Australian horses are also near here.

The Nal Bazar, in Sandhurst Road, in the N.W. quarter of the city, supplies a large part of Bombay, and is generally immensely crowded.

Near

A little S. of the Bazar is the Pinjrapol, or Infirmary for Sick Animals, a curious institution, covering several acres. This place is in the quarter called Bholeswar, "Lord of the Simple"; and the temple of the deity so called, a form of Siva, is within the enclosure. it again, to the S.W., is the Roman Catholic Cathedral, N.S., da Esperanca, and, to the S.E., the Mombadevi Tank and Temple, from which the name of Bombay is believed to be derived. S. of the Tank is the Jami Masjid, and E. of this is the main thorough

1 Momba (Mumba) itself is a corruption of Maha Amma (Amba), Great Mother.

where the latter crosses Grant Road from the W. is the Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy Hospital, erected in 1845 at the joint expense of that gentleman and the E.I. Company, and having accommodation for 500 patients. In the hall is a bronze statue of Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, a copy of one in the Town Hall. Attached to it are a Hospital for Incurables, the Bai Motlabai Wadia Obstetric Hospital, and the Dinshaw Maneckjee Petit Hospital for women and children, erected in 1889 and 1890.

Adjoining the Hospital is the Grant Medical College, established in 1845 in memory of Sir Robert Grant, Governor of Bombay. Besides the Principal and nine professors, there are twelve demonstrators and tutors in the College. The Museum is full of curious things. The grounds cover acres, and are made instructive by planting in them all kinds of useful trees and shrubs.

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A little to the S.E. of the Hospital the Jail and a European Workhouse. N. from the Hospital Parel Road leads past Christ Church and the Byculla Station to the old Victoria Technical Institute and the Victoria and Albert Museum, and finally to the old Government House at Parel. The old Institute occupied the old building of the Elphinstone College, opposite the Victoria Gardens, built from a gift by Sir Cowasjee Jehangir Readymoney, and given up in 1890. The Institute has been transferred to a new building near Matunga. It is under a Principal assisted by eight professors, and is intended provide a training in Art and Science in their application to industrial and other purposes.

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The Victoria and Albert Museum is a handsome building, standing

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in the gardens about 100 yds. back from the road. Until 1857 the collection, which is not an important one-except for the prints, maps, photographs, etc., illustrating the history of Bombay, which are to be seen in the Old Bombay rooms was kept in the Fort Barracks, but, on Sir G. Birdwood being appointed curator by Lord Elphinstone, he raised a subscription of a lakh_for_building this Museum. Sir B. Frere laid the first stone in 1862, and Government completed the building in 1871. The Clock Tower in front of it was erected by Sir Albert Sassoon, who also presented the fine statue of Prince Albert, by Noble. The Victoria Gardens, in which the Museum stands, have an area of 34 acres, and are prettily laid out. To the right of the S. entrance to them is the stone elephant which gave the island of Elephanta its name; and on the E. side of them are a Menagerie and Deer Park.

The band plays

here twice a-week, and over two millions visit the Gardens yearly, one million visiting the Museum.

Parel Road continues from here past the Veterinary College, built on a site given by Sir Dinshaw Maneckjee Petit, to the Old Government House. This was a Portuguese place of worship, confiscated by the English Government on account of the conduct of the Jesuits in 1720. Governor Hornby was the first who took up his residence there, between 1771-80. To supply the required accommodation Mr Elphinstone built the right and left wings. The public rooms are in the centre facing the W. The drawing-room or ballroom, above the diningroom, occupies the place of the old Portuguese chapel. Recent changes have made these objects unrecognisable. The building is used as a laboratory for Bacterial Research, the study of Tropical Medicine, and the preparation of

plague vaccine. Visitors to it may occasionally see the interesting process of extracting venom from snakes and of making antidotes to poisoning from snakebite. A Pasteur Institute has lately been established here. On the staircase there is a bust, and in the ballroom a portrait, of the Duke of Wellington. At the end of the ballroom is what is called the Darbar Room. From the S. corridor steps descend to a platform in the garden, where the band plays. The garden of Parel is pretty, and has at its W. extremity a tank, and on its margin a terrace, which rises about 10 ft. above the water and the grounds.

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The European Cemetery, Sewri, E. of Parel, formerly a Botanical Garden, is a sheltered spot under Flagstaff Hill. The garden was turned into a cemetery about 1867.

near

2 m. N. of Parel is the Acworth Leper Asylum, Matunga Village. The Sassoon Reformatory is situated near the Matunga Road Station of the B.B. and C.I. Railway.

The drive round the Back Bay to Malabar Hill, 180 ft. high, by Queen's Road and Malabar Hill Road, is extremely beautiful and interesting. Beyond the Marine Lines Station are an enclosed burning place of the Hindus and a closed Muhammadan and Christian cemetery, and farther on is the Wilson College (named after Rev. Dr J. Wilson, F.R.S., Oriental scholar and Scottish missionary), for the education of young mena fine building, which cost a lakh and a half of rupees, and is one of the largest colleges for Indians in Western India. The staff consists of a Principal and nine professors.

At about 3 m. from the Fort the road begins to ascend a spur of Malabar Hill. Near the top, on the left, are the entrance gates to the drive through the grounds (private) of Government House at

Malabar Point, with a pleasant view across Back Bay to the city of Bombay on the farther side. Below, at the extreme point, there used to be a battery, which could sweep the sea approach. Not far off to the N. a large ship, the Diamond, was wrecked, and eighty passengers were drowned. Sir Evan Nepean (1812-19) was the first Governor to reside at Malabar Point. In 1819-20 Mr Elphinstone added a public breakfast-room and a detached sleeping bungalow on a small scale.

In 1828 Sir John Malcolm considerably enlarged the residence at Malabar Point, and constituted it a Government House. Close by is the picturesque temple of Walkeswar, the " Sand Lord," built C. 1000 A.D. Throngs of Hindus will be met coming from it, their foreheads newly coloured with the sectarial mark. Rama, on his way from Ayodhya (Oudh) to Lanka (p. lxv) to recover his bride Sita, carried off by Ravana, halted here for the night. Lakshman provided his brother Rama with a Lingam from Benares every night. This night he failed to arrive in time, and Rama made for himself a Lingam of the sand at the spot. On the arrival of the Portuguese in after ages, this sprang into the sea from horror of the barbarians. There is a small but very picturesque tank here, adorned with flights of steps, surrounded by Brahmans' houses and shrines. When Rama thirsted here, he shot an arrow into the earth, and forthwith appeared the Vanatirtha, Arrow-Tank.'

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The drive from Malabar Point, and thence along the sea by Breach Candy,1 under the W. side of Cumballa (Khambala) Hill, is one

1 Various derivations and meanings of this name have been put forward. Mr Edwardes (Gazetteer of Bombay, 1910) suggests it "the beach at the mouth of the hollow or pass-that is to say, the hollow between Cumballa ridge on the north and the Malabar ridge on the south." Candy=khind or

means

pass.

of the most beautiful in the island, especially at evening. On these hills are situated the principal residences of the European community and many wealthy Indians, surrounded by small but bright gardens. On Cumballa Hill is the new Bomanji Dinshaw Petit Hospital for Parsis, built at a cost of 15 lakhs, and with a present endowment of 5 lakhs. At the N. end of Breach Candy are the Mahalakshmi Temple and Tank on the sea. Eastward from there (approached by Clerk Road) is the Race-course where races are held throughout the cold weather on Wednesdays and Saturdays, under the management of the Western India Turf Club. Here also is situated the Willingdon Sports' Club, with its Golf Course, and Polo and Cricket Grounds. In the centre of Malabar Hill, about 180 ft. above the sea, are the grounds of the Ladies' Gymkhana, and beyond them the Hanging Gardens, affording lovely views of the Back Bay and of the great line of grand buildings rising on the farther side of it, and of the harbour and islands and mountains beyond them. Between the gardens is All Saints' Church, and beyond them and N. of the head of the curve of the bay are the Five Parsi Towers of Silence. order to see them, permission must be obtained from the secretary to the Parsi Panchayat, 209 Hornby Road. Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, at his own expense, made the road which leads to the Towers on the N. side, and gave 100,000 sq. yds. of land on the N. and E. sides of the Towers. Within the gateway of an outer enclosure a flight of eighty steps mounts up to a gateway in an inner wall. From this point the visitor is accompanied by an official of the Panchayat, and turning to the right comes to a stone building, where, during funerals, prayer is offered. At a

In

Parsi funeral the bier is carried up the steps by four Nasr Salars, or "Carriers of the Dead," and fol

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