were called, were like the great barons, or lords of empire in Europe, who in "the middle ages" built the famous castles along the Rhine.

A great castle in the heart of Tokio was the stronghold of these powerful military rulers of Japan. Here and there are to be seen long, rambling buildings which were once the dwellings of the nobles. Many of them are now deserted, and others are used for government offices. The walls and wide moat of the old castle still remain.

The palace of the mikado stands on the site of the old castle. It is a beautiful building of Japanese architecture and is surrounded by double walls and broad moats. Many of the larger rooms are heated, lighted, and furnished after the style of European palaces.

The private apartments are Japanese in all the furnishings, as the emperor and empress prefer to live after the national custom-sitting, eating, and sleeping on the matted floors.

The palace gardens are very beautiful. Flowers are cultivated to the highest perfection, especially the chrysanthemum,—the imperial flower of Japan. Here are to be seen more than eight hundred varieties, of every possible shade of color. In November, when this royal flower is at its best, the palace gates are thrown open to invited guests and then is given the emperor's chrysanthemum party.

Not many years ago none but the nobles were admitted to the presence of the emperor and empress, and even they were compelled to remain many feet distant and were not allowed to look into the faces of their

rulers. Now all is changed, and the emperor meets his state officials and the representatives of foreign governments, while the empress is frequently seen in public, visiting hospitals and schools and giving presents to the children with her own hands.

A visit to Tokio in the springtime is one to be long remembered. The avenue along the riverside is lined with plum and cherry trees, which are then in bloom and beautiful beyond the power of words to describe. The Japanese love these trees for their beauty alone, as the fruit is quite tasteless and of little value.

In Japan each kind of tree, as its time to blossom comes, is made the occasion of a festival. After the cherry blossoms comes the wistaria, and then erowds of people gather in the gardens where it grows, to celebrate its festival. As the wistaria passes, the tree peony comes; then the iris; and later the lotus, covering the garden pools with rich flowers.

The love of flowers is a national characteristic of the Japanese, and gives travelers a clearer understanding of the gentleness and politeness which mark this interesting people.

The skill of the gardeners is lavished upon the chrysanthemum, and the large bushes covered with these beautiful flowers delight all who see them. A great festival, called the "Feast of the Chrysanthemum," is held every year in its honor. Then the people, in gardens and parks to

holiday dress, flock to the public admire the gorgeous blossoms of every color and every shape. Sometimes, too, may be seen five or six kinds, of different colors and shapes, growing on the same

plant so skillful have the Japanese become in grafting flowers.

It has long been the custom in Dangozaka, the great chrysanthemum garden of Tokio, to arrange the flowers to represent people, animals, boats, bridges, or some historical scene. This is done by making a bamboo frame, and training the plants to grow around it.

Nearly every month some flower festival is held.

The temple of Asakusa is the principal one in Tokio. It is one of the most important sights of the city, and is a good example of the great Buddhist temples of Japan. The gardens and pleasure grounds near it are very large, and, to the Japanese mind, quite as important as the temple itself. They contain splendid trees, in which great flocks of pigeons make their nests. Quaint stone lanterns are sure to be found near every temple.

The avenue leading to the temple is lined with booths, where all kinds of toys and cheap ornaments are for sale. Near the gate of the temple the booths contain prayer beads, small idols of wood and brass, sacred bells, candles, and other articles used in worship.

Immense grotesque idols guard the entrance to the temple grounds, and on the iron grating before them we may see a number of straw sandals, placed there, as an act of worship, by those who hope thereby to gain the strength of the giant gods.

The most striking feature of the temple itself is the great overhanging roof of black tiles. The building is of wood, and is painted a dull red color.

As we ascend the steps and enter the sacred portals of the temple of Asakusa, we are astonished at the

sight that meets our eyes. Hundreds of people of every age and class are moving to and fro; the clattering of their wooden clogs, the ringing of bells, and the beating of drums produce an effect altogether confusing. Many people are kneeling on the temple floor, and many more are engaged in the curious perform

written on slips of paper, are chewed to a pulp and thrown by the person offering them, in the hope that they will stick to the idol, as this is believed to prove that the prayer has been heard.

In the temple grounds is a high tower, from whose summit an extended view of the city is to be seen.

CHAPTER XVIII.

ON THE TOKAIDO.

Two great highways connect Tokio, the eastern and modern capital of Japan, with Kioto, the western and ancient capital. One of these roads, the Nakasendo, crosses the mountain region through the very heart of Japan; the other, the Tokaido, lies nearer the coast and is the most traveled road in the empire. For centuries the Tokaido was the highway over which the daimios traveled between Kioto, the home of the mikado, and Yeddo, the capital city of the shogun. The mikado had but little power, and the shogun, known to foreign powers as the tycoon, was the actual ruler of Japan. To-day the Tokaido is the highway of the telegraph line between these ancient cities, as well as the road for travelers.

The distance between Kioto and Tokio is about the same as that between Boston and Baltimore, and a railroad now follows the course of the Tokaido. A jinrikisha ride, although so much slower, is far the better way to learn something of the many towns and villages along this ancient road. In every village we notice first that the houses are built along one principal street, and that each house is in a garden. The most attractive part of the house is not to be seen from the road, since it faces the garden in the rear.

The gardens are often very small, and yet they are carefully arranged miniature landscapes. Tiny lakes with rocky islands, rivers crossed by rustic bridges,