There are many other curious laws regulating the most minute details of daily life. It is believed that many of these customs will be changed, as railroads make progress through China, and the Chinese become more and more familiar with the ways of other peoples.

CHAPTER XV.

FROM CANTON TO PEKING.

We

ON leaving Canton it would be very interesting to make the overland journey to Peking, which is in the northeastern portion of the empire. We should learn about the life of the country people and see customs which have been common among them for ages. should find opium growing quite extensively and occupying land capable of producing food for the thousands now so scantily fed. In the north we should find millet, Indian corn, and beans taking the place of rice.

In many parts of the country roses, peonies, hydrangeas, azaleas, and hundreds of other flowers grow in great luxuriance.

Traveling by land in China is difficult, owing to the absence of inns and the intense hatred of foreigners. We will therefore return to Shanghai and journey by water to the great cities of the north.

Sailing up the Pei-Ho a distance of thirty miles from its mouth, we arrive at the city of Tientsin.

Tientsin, the "Heavenly Ferry," is the port of Pe

king. Like the other cities in the Great Plain, the country surrounding Tientsin is very low and is often flooded.

In many respects it resembles Shanghai, especially in the contrast between the well-kept foreign settlement and the Chinese city. While Tientsin is not so important a port as Shanghai, many ships enter and leave here every year. As it is the only port for a vast region in the interior of China, an immense trade is carried on here.

To foreigners Tientsin is best known as the residence of Li Hung Chang, for many years the most distinguished of Chinese officials. His name has become known throughout the civilized world as that of a great statesman; and he is, perhaps, the only one among all the millions of Chinamen whose name would be recognized in any public assembly.

Whatever progress has been made in China during recent years is largely due to this great viceroy. Through his influence, telegraph lines connect the principal cities, and railroads are being built in different directions through the empire.

When the first telegraph line between Tientsin and Peking was being repeatedly pulled down by the infuriated natives, Li Hung Chang was told that these acts were committed by the spirits of the earth and water (called Fengshui by the Chinese), who were disturbed by this new and hateful invention.

Li Hung Chang replied that if he caught one of these "spirits" interfering with the telegraph line it would be a serious matter for him! After this hint the line was not tampered with again.

When General Grant visited China, on his tour around the world, Li Hung Chang received him with especial attention, and the two great men became firm friends.

Soon after war between China and Japan was declared in 1894, Li Hung Chang was deprived by the emperor of his yellow coat and his peacock feather, the badges of his power, because the Chinese army was defeated in battle. This is the usual custom in China when a general has been defeated, and it is designed to inspire him to greater efforts in future battles, in order to regain the emperor's favor. The war resulted in the total defeat of the Chinese forces.

Li Hung Chang was soon restored to power, and at the close of the war was sent to Japan to arrange a treaty of peace.

Leaving Tientsin, a journey of eighty miles brings us to the great capital of the Chinese Empire. Peking, the imperial city, is one of the largest cities on the globe. It has the undesirable reputation of being the dirtiest city in the world. It is surrounded by a wall forty-five feet high, and so wide that six horses could be driven on it abreast. It seems to be, what in reality it always has been, a great and strongly fortified camp. All around the wall runs a wide moat, the beginning of the Grand Canal.

Peking is a very ancient city, so old that no record remains of its foundation. It is supposed that as long ago as the time when the Israelites crossed the Red Sea there was here a flourishing city.

Peking is made up of three cities, the "Tartar City,"

the "Chinese City," and the "Forbidden City." The Tartar, or imperial, city is six miles in circumference, and is occupied by the nobility and the soldiers. Here, too, are the numerous public buildings. The "Forbidden City," surrounded by a wall and also by a moat, includes the palaces of the emperor and his court. Foreigners are not allowed to enter it, and must be content with a view of the yellow roofs of the palaces to be seen from the top of the city wall.

The emperor is like a prisoner within the "Forbidden City," only coming out from his seclusion at stated times. Notice of this great event is sent abroad by heralds. He is held in greatest reverence, as is shown by his title "Son of Heaven"; and only those who by reason of high rank are near to him are allowed to look upon his face.

In the celebration of all great religious ceremonies the emperor is the high priest of the empire. At various points about the city are the temples to Heaven, Earth, Sun, and Moon.

At each of these temples the emperor worships in

person.

When he goes to worship at the "Temple of Heaven," the people along the way are obliged to prostrate themselves and to so remain until he has passed. Along the principal street great yellow screens are hung to prevent the shopkeepers and bystanders from looking at him.

The city proper is fourteen miles in circumference. Unlike those of other Chinese cities, the principal