SUPPOSED SITE OF DODONA. 481 lowing words, NEARCHO..... NAT. XX.... ET. LUCIO. A peasant from one of the neighbouring cottages informed us, that in digging he once discovered a large brass coin, but he had given it to his children to play with, and they had lost it. We next ascended the fine circular hill which rises from this eminence on its western side, and agrees aptly enough with the epithets αιπύνωτος, δυσχείμερος, applied by the ancient poets to Dodona: it is conical in shape, with a large piece of its vertex cut off by a plane parallel to its base: its summit is entirely surrounded by very fine Pseudo-Cyclopéan walls, dilapidated in many places in their circuit, which appears to be about a mile and a half, we observed several towers and gateways; but in the interior we could not discover, after the most patient investigation, any vestiges of buildings, excepting a few subterranean vaults or reservoirs. Some persons place the site of Dodona upon the Zagoriot mountains on the other side of the lake, others at the village of Protopapas, near Zitza: others again assert it to have been near the village of Glyki, on the borders of the Acheron, below the Suliot hills; and Dr. Holland, whose opinions are always worthy of most attentive consideration, inclines to a situation between the Aracthus and Achelous, under the lofty mountain called Zumerka*. Amidst these conflicting testimonies I shall refer the reader, who has any curiosity upon the subject, to the Dissertation in the Appendix. From the oracular hill we descended to the spot where the waters of the lake descend into the bowels of a mountain through the orifices called Katavothra; amongst some rocks near this place we shot a great number of wild pigeons, with which the hills around Ioannina abound, and then directed our course over the mountain ridge in a westerly di * Holland's Travels, p. 146, note. I cannot however help thinking that every opinion which inclines to place Dodona in the more southern district of Epirus is considerably invalidated by a passage of the accurate Polybius, who says that Dorimachus the Ætolian General, laid waste Epirus, and advancing towards the upper districts (εις τὰς ἄνω τόπος τῆς Ἡπείρω) destroyed the temple of Dodona together with its porticoes and many of its offerings, A. U. C. 536, for the Etolians were a people who knew not the laws of peace or war. Lib. iv. c. 67. 482 VILLAGE OF VELCHISTA. rection towards the village of Velchista. In about one hour and a half we arrived at the opposite side of the ridge and looked down upon a most picturesque glen, at the head of which the waters of the lake (as they are conjectured to be) ooze out of the ground in an infinite number of small streams, till they form a large body of water: this foams impetuously down the glen from rock to rock in a vast variety of cascades and sets in motion a number of water-mills, which, together with groups of Albanian girls washing linen in the stream, give an air of indescribable life and beauty to the scene. As the valley widens, the plains of the river Kalamas, or Thyamis of antiquity, (those plains where Atticus the friend of Cicero had his delightful country house, to which he retired during the most disastrous times of the republic) come finely into the prospect bounded by the blue mountains of Thesprotia. The houses in this valley appear as if they were shut out from connexion with the world; and their inhabitants, secure from its corruptions, might here cultivate all the rural virtues in peace and tranquillity, but for the tyranny and exactions of Mouchtar Pasha, who purchased all the land, turned the village into a chiflick*, and obtains from the poor inhabitants a greater annual revenue than the sum with which he bought the property. In our endeavours to penetrate as far as the head of the valley to observe more accurately the exit of the waters, I had very nearly met with a fatal accident. As there is no regular road, we were obliged to find a way along the steep and precipitous sides of the glen; one hill I endeavoured to cross by means of a ledge formed of loose materials that had been washed down by the rains; but scarcely had I advanced ten steps when these materials began to slide from under my feet, and if I had not possessed presence of mind enough to recline quietly upon my back, I should have been precipitated down a chasm at least three hundred feet in depth. By slow degrees I regained my * The meaning of this term will be explained hereafter. original position, when we returned and proceeded to the western point of the village, where a fine angular promontory, like a natural mole or bastion, rises over the plain. The ancients, who were quite as acute as the moderns in selecting appropriate sites for their fortifications, had taken advantage of this to build thereon some very strong works, the massive masonry of which seems to defy the efforts of time in its destruction. In this neighbourhood are two old Greek churches, one of which occupies the site of a pagan temple or some other ancient edifice. In returning to Ioannina I was attacked by one of those fierce Molossian dogs which the shepherds of this country keep as the guardians of their flocks: the animal flew with such fury at my horse's heels, who plunged and kicked most violently, that I was obliged to turn and discharge my fowling-piece over him, or I should certainly have been unhorsed: probably a single shot touched him, as he gave a howl and ran off immediately. I have not unfrequently been exposed at different times to very considerable danger by the attacks of these ferocious animals: on one occasion, during our tour in Upper Albania, as I loitered a little behind the party, three of them set upon me at once, one of whom actually leaped from the high ground on the side of the mountain path upon my horse's back, and might possibly have dragged me from my saddle but for a blow which I dealt him from a large iron handled hunting-whip which I had carried from England. The colour of these dogs varies through different shades from a dark brown to a bright dun, their long fur being very soft, and thick, and glossy in size they are about equal to an English mastiff: they have a long nose, delicate ears finely pointed, magnificent tail, legs of a moderate length, with a body nicely rounded and compact. There seems reason to think that, while the human inhabitants of this rich soil have been strangely intermingled with degenerate strangers, these four-footed tenants have preserved their pedigree unimpaired, as they possess all that strength, swiftness, sagacity, and fidelity which are ascribed to them by the ancient authors*; from whose accounts we find this breed was so esteemed that they were thought worthy of a place amongst the rarities of the earth in the splendid pomp of Ptolemy; whilst Polycrates, the celebrated tyrant of Samos, when, like an excellent agriculturist, he imported goats from Scyros and Naxos, pigs from Sicily, and sheep from Attica and Miletus, brought bitches also from the Spartan and Molossian territories to improve the breed of their guardians. January 15. The weather during our residence at Ioannina had hitherto been very favourable, only now and then interspersed with a little rain and sleet. Fahrenheit's thermometer had varied from 38 to 52 degrees, the observations being taken between twelve and two o'clock. A succession of several fine days just at this time gave us hopes of a mild winter, and Mustafà, at our request, issued orders at the post-house for as many horses as we might require on the following day. * The Molossian breed was so celebrated, that it was deduced from the famous dog of Cephalus, to which the following fabulous origin was assigned. The god Vulcan having made a brazen dog, according to the finest rules of art, endowed it with animation and made a present of it to Jupiter, from whom it descended through various hands to Cephalus. As this dog was created ❝quкroç, i. e. endowed by fate with the power of catching every thing at which he should run, a dilemma ensued on account of the famous Teumesian fox, which at a prior birth had been created anтоç," fated never to be caught." Whilst two such animals therefore as these existed upon earth the Destinies could never be free from apprehension to save their credit therefore, Jupiter was obliged to change both dog and fox into stone. Julius Pollux, v. c. 5. The savage nature of these Molossian dogs is denoted by Virgil in his Culex, 330. "Scylla rapax canibus succincta Molossis:" and the terrible Cerberus was of the Epirotic breed: ëvĉožos dè cài ỏ 'Hπεipwriкòs Képßepoc Pollux, v. c. 5. Æneas Poliorcetes (p. 24. ed. Casaub.) says that they were very generally used as letter-carriers when particular dispatch was requisite. Their fidelity is so well known that one example of it will suffice. The dog of Pyrrhus is recorded to have kept watch over his master while he slept, and being inconsolable at his death leaped upon the funeral pile and was consumed with his remains. From the constant mention made by the ancient poets and others of the Spartan and Molossian dogs together, it would seem probable that they were of the same breed, or at least held in equal estimation. Molossus aut fulvus Lacon Amica vis pastoribus. Hor. Nec tibi cura canum fuerit postrema; sed una + Athenæi Deipn. v. 201. xii. 540. CHAPTER XVII. Departure for an Excursion into Thesprotia-Scenery-Greek Chapels, &c.-Ruins of an ancient City-Theatre and Walls—Conjectures on its Site-Village of Dramisus-Mountain Roads-Devitzianȧ-Heavy Rains-Miseries of an Albanian Cottage-Flute of an Eagle's WingAdventure at the Acheron-Return towards Ioannina-Village of Vareatis-Manner of killing Fowls-Scenery of Epirus-Molossian DogsArrival at Ioannina-Combat in the Streets-Visit the Vizir in his Albanian Room-Visit Mouchtar and Mahmet Pasha-Mr. Cockerell departs for Athens-Accompany him over the Lake-Cold of the Winter— Great Scarcity of Fuel-Game at Chess-Visit to a Greek-Dinner at the French Consul's-Letter from Mr. Cockerell, dated Livadia, and Extract from it. JANUARY 16.-The sun beamed bright upon the minarets of Ioannina as we departed on our Thesprotian expedition. A considerable concourse of people was drawn together by curiosity to see us, and several of our Greek acquaintance shook their heads at the idea of an Epirotian tour undertaken at this time of the year. Being preceded by Mustafà and an Albanian guide, whom Mouchtar Pasha had sent according to his promise, we advanced across the great plain in a direction S. S. W., and from thence diverged into the recesses of its mountain barriers. We soon arrived at some very beautiful scenery, and were particularly struck with the romantic sites of many pretty villages, as well as solitary Greek chapels, situated upon the tops of eminences and surrounded by umbrageous groves of venerable oaks or spreading beech trees. These chapels generally contain the picture of a saint to whom they are dedicated, and afford a place of resort to the |