Visit to the Vizir in the Fortress-Description of the Castron-Old Serai --Conversation with Ali-Mosques of the Castron, &c.-Visit to Mouchtar Pasha-Description of the Lake-Katabothra-Ruins at Gastrizza-Fish of the Lake, &c.-Excursion to the supposed Site of Dodona-Village of Velchista-Reappearance of the Waters of the Lake there-Ancient Remains-Molossian Dogs-Climate.

JANUARY 12th, 1814.-This morning we sent the kaivasi to signify a wish of paying our respects to his highness, who returned for answer that he would gladly receive us in his old serai, which is within the castron. Accordingly, preceded by Mustafà in state, and accompanied by Nicolo as interpreter, we directed our steps towards the fortress. At one entrance of its deep fosse we observed an old brig, which had been built for the vizir's excursions upon the lake, but

472

DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTRON.

being now too much decayed for service, was here laid up in ordinary. We crossed the ditch by a strong drawbridge, and in passing through the heavy gateway observed the entrance to the buldrun, that dismal prison of an inexorable tyrant, beneath the strong line of fortification. The streets in the interior of the castron are very narrow, badly paved, and gloomy in that quarter allotted to the Jews, the habitations are not to be compared in point of comfort to an Irish cabin. Many of them are actually open to the public view on two sides, whilst the stories of the house are only supported by props, to which ragged blankets and old garments are attached for the purpose of sheltering the wretched inmates from the inclemency of the weather; one feels alarmed at walking through such streets, lest he should chance to be overwhelmed in the falling ruins. Without ocular demonstration I could not have believed it possible for human beings thus to have existed in a climate where the winter is oftentimes extremely rigorous and severe. Yet they do exist in this state, and many of them from motives of policy rather than necessity. They exercise for the most part the trade of brokers and money-lenders, and the hope of gain cheers this wretched people under all their privations here, as in every other foreign land. One of the tribe is chief-treasurer and banker to the vizir.

The serai stands in an open space, near the south-east corner of the castron it is a vast irregular pile of building, surrounding nearly three sides of a large area or court. The effect of its architecture and decorations is very striking at a distance; but this diminishes on a closer inspection, when the coarseness of its work and the perishable nature of its materials, impress upon the mind ideas only of barbarous magnificence and ephemeral power. The great hall of this palace was crowded with attendants in every variety of costume, from the redshawled Macedonian and turbaned Osmanli, to the Albanian with his shaggy white capote, and the Greek archon in robes of ermine and enormous calpac. The turban being the characteristic head-dress of

CONVERSATION WITH ALI.

473

a Mahometan, the Greeks in most parts of Turkey are not permitted to wear it. How different are the marks of servitude among different people! Tacitus says of the ancient Britons that it was a part of their subjection to wear the dress of their

conquerors.

We had our audience in a large square saloon, very handsomely gilt and furnished: Signore Colovo and a Turk of distinction were present. The pasha himself was seated as usual at a corner of the divan, drawing the smoke of tobacco into his lungs through a houka, whilst a book lay opened and turned down upon the sofa beside him, as if with a design to shew us how erroneous the assertions of some persons were who have declared that he is unable to read. He received us very graciously and motioned us to take our seats beside him on the divan: Signore Nicolo however, as interpreter, did not dare to assume this privilege, but stood all the time at an awful distance. The pasha inquired minutely respecting our accommodations, hoped we were satisfied with the attentions paid us, and requested us always to inform him of any neglect in others, or any wants of our own, through the medium of Mustafà, who he declared was a very honest fellow. We assured his highness that nothing could exceed the satisfaction we had experienced from his kind reception of us, and that we were perfectly contented with our accommodations of every kind. At this interview I thought his countenance exhibited stronger marks of stern severity than I did at our first introduction, which was by candle-light, and the deep-worn furrows of care seemed to indicate more clearly the hardships and anxieties of an eventful life. He questioned us a little, but in the most polite and courteous manner, respecting our situations in life and motives for travelling, and expressed great astonishment that Mr. Parker, who was an only son, should leave his friends and so many sources of enjoyment at home, to roam about such desolate uncivilized countries, so full of dangers and inconveniences; and he blamed his mother very much for permitting him to quit England. It would be difficult indeed to persuade a Turk that the dangers and inconveniences of 3 P

VOL. I.

474

EXERCISE OF THE DJEREED.

foreign travel can be at all compensated by any advantages with which it is accompanied. He now turned to me and requested to look at the hat which I held in my hand; expressed his astonishment at the excellence of our English manufactures, and wished he could procure a great-coat made of the same material. In the mean time some. of the fine Albanian youths that stood in attendance supplied us with pipes and coffee, and the pasha ordered a brace of English pistols, which he had condescended to accept as a slight mark of our gratitude, to be brought in their case before him; he then made one of his attendants charge them with powder and fire them off in the balcony of the serai, appearing much pleased at the loudness of the report. Before our departure we mentioned to him our intention of making a short tour in his dominions, which would comprise Suli and Paramithia, which we understood to be the scenes of his most warlike exploits. He seemed very much pleased at this intelligence and desired us to send Mustafà to receive his directions upon the subject; said the country was quite practicable; but that he had passed and repassed over all parts of it in every season of the year, when a thousand muskets were aimed against his life; but that now we should find perfect security and tranquillity diffused over the whole district.

When we took our leave the vizir preceded us to the gallery or external balcony of the palace, where he stood a considerable time to view his officers amusing themselves, in the great area, at the exercise of the Djereed. This is a species of sham fight between two parties mounted on horseback, who hurl at each other sticks of a moderate thickness and about a yard in length. They advance in a gallop with loud outcries, bring their steeds in a moment to a dead stand, hurl their pointless darts with incredible dexterity, start off again at full speed, wheel round, or avoid the blow of their adversary by reclining at full length over the bow of the saddle. The bustle and activity of this scene is indescribable; the Turk in proportion to his general supineness is the more violent in exertion when he is once put

MOSQUES OF THE CASTRON.

475

in motion and his blood in circulation; he then appears like a horse which runs away blindly in all the wildness of ungovernable fury. Neither is this exercise entirely free from danger; they are frequently unhorsed, and sometimes the loss of a combatant's eye or tooth, or a broken rib, attests the skill and strength of his adversary's arm. But nothing is so amazing as the dexterity acquired by the horses: these sagacious and docile animals are taught to stop, or to start off, at full speed; to turn round in the most confined space; to deflect from their course for the purpose of avoiding the weapon; and to gallop in the most intricate figures: they seem actually as if they could penetrate the very intentions of their rider.

Quid cupias ipsi scire videntur equi.

Yet one is shocked at the cruelty used both in the training and the exercise: we saw these poor animals, at the conclusion of the sport, led off the ground with their mouths all in a bloody foam from the terrible sharpness of the bits.

Mustafà now took us into a small room adjoining the serai to see the standards of the vizir; the three horse-tails which are attached to long poles and carried before a pasha of the highest rank in the field of battle. From thence we proceeded to the south-west corner of the castron where a large mosque, appropriated to the serai, stands upon the site of the most ancient church of Ioannina*: near it is a large tomb surrounded by an iron railing, wherein repose the ashes of one of Ali's wives, the mother of Mouchtar Pasha, a woman whose character was universally respected and who is still spoken of in terms of the highest admiration from this mosque, we passed through many miserable narrow lanes, to the other of Hassan Pasha, which stands charmingly situated on the edge of the north-east. precipice. Upon this site stood formerly a church dedicated to St. John, and it is now enclosed by some beautiful cypresses: in the vicinity are ruins of the

* I copied here a very singular and curious Greek inscription, which will be given in its proper place. The church was dedicated to St. Michael, the patron of the city.