or at least near, the upper terrace*, at no great distance from the stadium, between which and it was the sepulchre of Neoptolemus; in the vicinity also, a little higher up the mountain, are two fountains, one of which in all probability is the prophetic Cassotis, the rival of Castalia, which, according to the account of Pausanias, would be seen by a person coming out of the temple and ascending the hill†.

Near this spot once lay poor Saturn's anti-stomachic pill; we were unable to discover the relic, but in its stead we found the torso of a fine marble statue, considerably mutilated, which I understand has since been conveyed by some traveller to England. In this part of the city also stood the Lesche or Conversazione of the ancient Delphians, in which they preserved the masterpieces of Polygnotus's pencil. Pausanias has given a copious and interesting catalogue of these incomparable productions: the Cassandra seems to have attracted the great attention of ancient connoisseurs+.

We waited a considerable time at the door of king Apollo's palace, but the porter was not to be found; it was therefore determined to explore its recesses on the morrow. We inquired respecting the practicability of an ascent to the Corycian Cave, but were answered that the robbers and the snow made it quite impossible. For my own part, had I been in strong health I should have treated these obstacles with great contempt, but an ague very much diminishes the enthusiasm of a traveller.

Poor Castri is unable to supply a stranger either with food or lodging, unless he be content to sleep with cattle in a place worse than a pig

'Avwrátw tñs tóλews by which expression Pausanias does not mean that no buildings were above it, but that the city was below it; for in c. 32. he makes mention of a statue of Bacchus, dedicated by the Cnidians, which would occur in the path of a person ascending a little from the temple, tavaßávri EK TO TEρIẞóle, and beyond even the fountain Cassotis, which was above the temple, he places the Lesche. Phoc. c. 25. 1.

The expression of Pausanias is rpanévre és ápisɛpà, which I translate "ascending the hill," taking it for granted that the temple faced E. and W. a circumstance however which rests upon more than mere conjecture, as will be shewn hereafter,

Lucian. Imag. 27.

sty, and eat bread, in comparison with which that of Sparta would have been a dainty. Those times are gone by when the pampered herald called the assembled multitudes of Delphi to superstition's feast*. Having therefore ordered out our horses, the officious papas held our stirrups as we mounted, and obsequiously kissed our hands in return for the remuneration which he received! How is the character of a people to be raised whilst such are their pastors!

The road by which we departed towards Crissa leads round the western point or horn of the great Parnassian coilon, close to the spot where Eumenes King of Pergamus was attacked by the banditti of Perseus; the locality is precisely marked by the nature of the ground and adjoining rocks, which served as a place of concealment to the assassins*. From thence we began to descend over a steep and rugged road into the spacious plain that extends from the Crissæan bay up to the celebrated city of Amphissa, which is still important enough to give its modern name of Salona to the gulf, and is the residence of a vaivode. This plain once lay under an Amphictyonic curse, which prohibited the plantation of a tree upon it: now it is covered with the finest olive trees I ever beheld, and which seem to have stood for centuries. In rather less than two hours we arrived at Crissa, which has altered its ancient name only in its termination, being now called Crisso. Here we found Antonietti and our baggage which we had sent by a shorter cut from Arracova, down the valley of the Pleistus. Crisso is a respectable village containing a population of about eight hundred souls, and is the residence of a bishop. It is well watered with rivulets and fountains, but contains very few vestiges of antiquity: the absence of these may perhaps be referred to the total destruction of this city by the Amphictyons, and its dedica

tion to Apollo. I made inquiries for a very curious inscription which Mr. Gropius had copied here, and of which he had given me a facsimile at Athens, but in vain; the ignorance of the Greeks upon these points is excessive, and the traveller must rarely indeed expect from them the least elucidation of his doubts or assistance in his researches. The inscription itself is so curious from its extreme antiquity as to warrant my insertion of it in this place: it has occupied the attention of many learned men in this country, but no one has succeeded in developing the slightest part of its signification. The Boustrophiedon mode of writing, and the Digamma, which it appears to contain, are additional proofs of its high antiquity*.

1111AMOTIONEMO11 UMTONMEREKEPAITEBOIAKAIK

OVOM OF FAQ||AN®A1®IM AT

Much has been said concerning the locality of Crissa and of its rival Cirrha; nay, even the existence of one of these cities has been confidently called in question, and it has been supposed that they were in fact the same town under different names. This decision rests chiefly upon the authority of Pausanias †, in whose time they were so totally destroyed that probably one of them escaped his observation,

This inscription is alluded to by the learned Bishop of Llandaff in his admirable work, entitled, Hora Pelasgicæ, p. 74.

+ Phoc. c. xxxvii. 4.

† So they were even in the days of Strabo: ἡ δὲ Κίῤῥα και ἡ Κρίσσα κατεσπάθησαν. (Vol. i. p. 667. ed. Ox.) Cirrha was razed by the Crissæans, and Crissa by Eurylochus the Thessalian, during the Crissæan war: for when the Crissæans had risen to opulence and power by their city becoming a great commercial emporium on the destruction of its rival, they levied such high duties upon all imports, and such exactions upon those who came to visit the oracle, in spite of the Amphictyonic command, as to bring down upon themselves the wrath of that great confederacy. Even to very late times 3 B

VOL. I.

whereas it is in direct opposition to Strabo, Ptolemy, and Pliny, and to the observations of modern travellers who have discovered the ruins of a city, nearer the sea than Crissa, which very accurately coincides in site with that laid down by the ancient geographers for Cirrha. These ruins are at a place called Xeropegano under Mount Cirphis, near the embouchure of the river Pleistus, about three hours from Delphi*.

the name of Cirrha seems to have been retained for the port of Crissa, though the latter gave its name to the gulf. To Κρισσαιο κόλπο διὰ τε τῇ Κίῤῥᾳ προσορμισθεὶς ἐκ νεὼς ἐπὶ τὴν πόλιν ἀνέθεον. Heliod. Ethiop. I. ii.

* Ὑποπέπτωκε δὲ τῇ Κέρφει πόλις ἀρχαια Κίῤῥα ἐπὶ τῇ θαλάττῃ ἱδρυμένη· ἀφ ̓ ἧς ἀνάβασις εις Δελφὸς ὀγδοήκοντά πω ταδίων ἵδρυται δ ̓ ἀπαντικρὺ Σικυῶνος· Πρόκειται δὲ τῆς Κίῤῥας τὸ Κρισσαιον πεδίον εὔδαιμον· Πάλιν δ' ἐφεξῆς ἐτιν ἄλλη πόλις ΚΡΙΣΣΑ ἀφ ̓ ἧς ὁ Κόλπος Κρισσαιος.—Strab. vol. i. 606. ed. Ox.

I think no one can doubt but that the village now called Crisso, and which contains the foundations of ancient walls and aqueducts, &c. is on the site of this last mentioned city.

Reascend the Heights of Parnassus-Church of St. Elias-View from thence-Fine semicircular Seat-Reflections on the Ruins of DelphiAncient Sepulchre-Shed supposed to be a remnant of the Pythian Temple-One of its Walls covered with Inscriptions-Copy of one in which mention is made of the Pythian Apollo-Historical Account of the successive Pythian Temples-Description of the last which remained entire in the Days of Pausanias-Contractors and Architect-Materials of the Building-Form and Species-Sculpture on the Pediments-Statuaries-Armour suspended on the Architrave-Sculpture of the Metopes and of the Frieze-Inscription over the PronaosOrnaments of it--Cella, with its Ornaments-Adytum-Statue of the God-Its Deportation to Byzantium-Oracular Chasm- -TripodPriestess-Tapestry, Subjects of its Embroidery, and Uses-Edituus or Superintendant-Temenos-Delphic Treasuries-Plunderers of Delphi Sacred Feasts--Decline and Extinction of the Oracle-Delphic Laurel--Departure to Salona--Albanian Vaivode--Description of Salona-Acropolis of Amphissa--Inhabitants--Set sail on the Gulf of Crissa-Dangerous Voyage-Land at Galaxithi-Its Navy and increasing Commerce--Reflections thereon--Policy of Ali Pasha