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much more irregular surface, owing probably to the Arab custom of building over the heaps of rubbish of previously dilapidated buildings, which here and there upon this area were of greater magnitude than on the intervening spaces. The depression of surface in the centre of the area of the present city (anciently called the street of the cheesemongers) commences not a great distance from the present north wall; and though nearly filled up at its northern extremity, retains its ancient depth where it leaves the city at the Pool of Siloam. The part of the city called Zion inclines towards this gulley along the eastern line of that quarter.

So far as I have attempted to describe it to you, the pres ent surface of the city site corresponds with the account of it by Josephus. Although he, as well as the sacred his torians, so frequently makes use of the word hills, yet I could not perceive that there is any part of the site of the city which rises in any sensible degree above the level of the great plain on the north of it, and of which it is, in fact, but a part, ending abruptly in the forked promontory I have described to you as frowning over the deep valley of Siloam, and the "King's Garden" at its southern extremity.

As to the "mountains" "round about Jerusalem," the only one deserving the name of hill even is that of Olivet, on the east. On the west side of the valley of Gihon the ground is much higher than that of the site of the city, hence its name of Mount Gihon; but it is only a more elevated part of the great plain, which here begins to break inte frequent undulations, that gradually roll up into hills towards Bethlehem in the south.

I have before said to you that the present city is an ir regular square. How this form is obtained from the triangular figure I have laid before you, I will endeavour to ex. plain.

The northern line of wall reaches to the verge of each valley on its eastern and western extremities. The east

WALLS OF JERUSALEM.

87

walls pursue almost a straight course, while that on the west is very irregular, though nearly parallel with the other for the greater part of its length. In order to do this, they encroach a little upon the valley at their southern angles, so that it became necessary to build them up here from a lower level; consequently the exterior of this part of the walls is much higher than the other part. Besides, the wall on the west does not extend to the extremity of Mount Zion, but turns at a right angle towards the east, leaving a part of that mount without the walls on the south. Mount Moriah is one third shorter than the opposite twin "hill" of Zion, and the wall at this southeast angle is of enormous height above the Pool of Siloam and the site of the "King's Garden."

There are eight gates in these walls, two in the north wall, two in the east, three in the irregular south wall, and one in the long crooked wall of the west. Of these, one or two are closed up with stone.

The whole circumference of the present city is, according to the best authorities, not over two and a half miles. Although we have not taken the trouble to measure it, I think the estimate is not far from the truth.

How far I shall have succeeded, by the assistance of a few of my husband's notes and my own clumsy engineering, in giving you a right understanding of the topographical features of the site of Jerusalem, it remains for you to say. I have, however, lately understood that a very scientific English gentleman, Mr. Catherwood, about a year since made a complete survey of the whole plot of the city, including every street and lane, with the exact position of every monument and celebrated spot within and without the city. He has besides taken pictorial views of everything of the least consequence. It is very probable that the result of his indefatigable exertions and patient investigations will be laid before the public in some shape or other; you will

then be enabled to form a better estimate of the Holy City than any of my imperfect sketches can possibly impart to

you.

The present city is supplied with water from two sources: one is the great number of private and public cisterns be neath the houses, the other is an aqueduct which comes from beyond Bethlehem. This interesting feature I will describe to you at another time.

At the commencement of the valley of Gihon is the "Upper Pool of Gihon," an artificial excavation in the rock, made to contain the waters of "the former and the latter rains." Some distance below this is another, of very great extent, three sides of which appear to have been cut below the natural level of the inclined valley, the lower side of which is closed by a dam. These must have contained an enormous quantity of water for the partial supply of that part of the ancient city which was built beneath the brow of Zion. Following the course of this valley, we came to where it changes its first name, and takes that of "the Valley of the children of Hinnom," by what authority I do not know.

In this part of the valley, situated on the slope of the hill which rises south of the city, is the celebrated" Aceldama," or "Field of Blood;" called also the "Potter's Field."

The path here turns suddenly towards the north, up the valley of Jehosaphat.

The first object of interest we met was the lower "Pool of Siloam." In order to come to a right understanding with respect to this celebrated water, I have taken some pains to consult all the authorities within my reach, and have come to the conclusion that I can agree with those who con. sider it the veritable

"Siloa's brook that flow'd

Fast by the oracle of God."

The lower pool is of no great extent, and is built up with

[blocks in formation]

regular masonry; and from the broken columns in and around, it appears once to have had a small temple or portico erected over it. It receives its water from another pool farther up the valley, by a subterranean passage cut in the rock. The surplus waters of this pool are said to have been used to irrigate the gardens of King Solomon below it.

Near this pool, it is said, the prophet Isaiah was buried. On the opposite or east side of the valley is a long compact village of mud huts, called Siloam, occupied by a low Arab population.

We next came to the upper "Pool of Siloam." It is an artificial cavern cut in the side of Mount Moriah, to which we descended by a flight of stone steps. Here we saw the aperture through which the waters flow by the subterranean passage to the lower pool. But where the water comes from that supplies this upper pool is the question.

There is a large and copious stream that falls into it from somewhere, by an underground passage. One authority says the spring rises within the city, at no great distance from the Latin convent on Calvary. It therefore must traverse the whole north part of the city and the site of the ancient temple; from thence descending by a very steep conduit to the upper pool.

If this is really the case, the temple, no doubt, received its supply of water from this source, and the stream may well be said to have "flowed fast by the oracle of God."

Immediately above this pool is the southeastern angle of the great wall which surrounds the summit of Mount Moriah, the area of the ancient temple, and the present mosque of Omar. This is the highest point, or, rather, the greatest depth, from the temple ground to the bottom of the valley beneath it. Josephus says that from this point of the valley the wall of the temple rose three hundred cubits (about four hundred and fifty feet). From the enormous size of most

of the blocks of hewn stone in this part of the foundation or terrace wall, I have little doubt that they are the same placed there by Solomon. They may possibly have once been partially thrown down, but replaced in their primitive position. On the opposite side of the valley, at the foot of Olivet, is an extensive Jewish cemetery. Every foot of ground seems to be occupied by the sleeping Israelites, who come from all parts of the world to repose on this spot, until the advent of their expected Messiah, or until the last trump shall awaken them, to be received into the bosom of their father Abraham. The Moslems have many customs founded on traditions imitated or derived from the Jewish and Christian faiths.

They believe that on the day of resurrection their prophet Mohammed will appear to them on the summit of the east wall which surrounds their sacred mosque. They there. fore, like the Jews, strive to get as near to this spot as possible when they die; and, being the present masters of the country, they oblige the poor Israelites to take up with the opposite side of the valley, while they repose in rows close beneath the eastern wall of Mount Moriah, and directly underneath the "east gate" of the temple, to wait there until "the harvest is ripe," and when it shall be proclaimed, “Let the heathen be wakened and come up to the valley of Jehosaphat for there I will sit to judge all the heathen round. about," Joel iii., 12. It is no wonder that the Christian monks have always eschewed this valley of Tophet as a place of burial, and resigned it to the infidel Jew and heathen Gentile. Their Necropolis is in the Terra Santa, on the extreme point of Zion, without the modern walls. The poor heretic Protestant, until very lately, was denied this privilege, and left to find his last resting-place among the other heathens in the vale of Tophet, or any other uncon secrated place he could chance to find. This has been very lately remedied in part by the exertions of our worthy mis.

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