except one curious species, which contains a dark purple liquid, said to have been used by the chymists of old as a basis for the celebrated Tyrian purple. I made a collection of them, and the beautiful violet stain upon this sheet is a specimen of the true Tyrian dye.

We spent an hour or two in this manner, and brought away quite enough to form an estimate of the conchology of Syria, and for a reminiscence of the coast of Canaan.

The town of Saida (Sidon) continued in sight until we had a distant view of Sour (Tyre). The plain at this point increases at times in width, and is about one mile wide from the sea to the mountains.

The soil appears to be very fertile and well cultivated: the wheat harvest is just begun. Several fine streams cross the plain on their way to the sea.

In some parts of Mount Lebanon there is a sect of Christians called Maronites, but whose religion, I am informed, is a curious mixture of Christianity and paganism. I probably shall see more of them another time, when I may give you some account of them.

I have seen some of the women of this tribe, and will endeavour to describe to you a part of their very singular costume. From their foreheads projects a long silver tube, or horn, which is about twenty inches long, resembling the head ornament of the fabled unicorn.

The real purpose for which they carry this exceedingly uncouth and inconvenient appendage, or whether it is connected with the doctrines of their religion, I know not.

The object ostensibly is, to hang on it the veil which covers their faces; and, while it completely conceals them from observation, it allows room for the circulation of fresh air, which is not the case with the tight kerchief worn by the Turk and Arab women generally.

In order to counterpoise this formidable and heavy protuberance, there are attached to its base a number of silken

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cords, which hang down their backs to the ground, and to which are suspended silver balls and large crimson silk tassels.

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In reflecting on this curious ornament, it called to my mind the various passages of Scripture, of which it is a striking illustration; and one can almost believe that the fashion was brought in the most ancient times from Ur of the Chaldees, by the followers of Zidon. In 1 Samuel ii., 1, we read, " And Hannah prayed, and said, My heart rejoiceth in the Lord, mine horn is exalted in the Lord." Job says, "I have defiled my horn in the dust." Psalm lxxv., 4, " I said to the wicked, Lift not up the horn." Again, lxxxix., 17, “ And in thy favour our horn shall be exalted." Also in lxxxix., 24, “ And in my name shall his horn be exalted." Various similar passages are to be found throughout the Bible, possibly having reference to this unique ornament of the ancient daughters of Shem.

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In the course of the day's ride we met a caravan, consisting of the hareem and led horses of an officer of Ibrahim Pacha's army, following to the field their warlike lord. If we could have supposed the ladies (?) as handsome as the Arabian horses (of which there were a dozen very beautiful ones), we should have regretted the vile practice that prevented us from seeing their faces. The women in these countries all use two stirrups when riding, for an obvious reason.

Scarcely had this cavalcade passed, when we met another of a very different character; it was that of two Jews returning from a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, whither they had been to visit the tombs of their forefathers, and the various relics which they still cling to with religious veneration. Having performed so pious and soul-saving an act, as they verily believe, they were returning to lay their bones in the land of their adoption, which was Bucharest on the Danube.

One was a very old and venerable-looking man, and doubtless no imperfect representation of one of the ancient patriarchs.

I do not deem it an idle speculation, as I journey through this land, consecrated by the residence of the patriarchs and the labours of the apostles, keenly to scrutinize the countenance of all I meet, for the chance of discovering some lineal descendants of those distinguished men; and really I have seen many who, from their venerable appear. ance, hoary locks, and snow-white beards (almost down to the waist), added to peculiar gravity of manner, might be adopted as no improbable resemblance. In fact, I can at every hour of the day see countenances so familiar to me, that sometimes I am startled at the sudden apparition of an old friend. They are no less than the fac-simile of those inspired features delineated on canvass with such surprising truth by the old Italian masters, in their scriptural subjects.

After our visit to Tyre, as I said before, we found our tent pitched in a beautiful green field which our servants had taken possession of. The situation is not only a truly delightful one, but is extremely interesting on account of its immediate vicinity to several remarkable antiquities.

It is said somewhere that Solomon, in consideration of Hiram having furnished materials and artisans for the tem ple at Jerusalem, among other returns, invented the hydraulic works which from that time have borne his name.

Independently of their singular construction, these wells are objects of great curiosity, from the immense quantity of water they discharge, which rises from a flat piece of ground to thirty feet above the level of the plain; not, however, by a jet, but by a very simple arrangement, which I shall endeavour to describe to you: In the first place, there were here, originally, no doubt, very copious springs issuing from the ground, whose waters found their way to the sea by the present channels since the deluge of Noah. These waters being not at a sufficient elevation to be carried to Tyre by an aqueduct, it remained for the man to whom it was said "Wisdom and knowledge are granted unto thee," to per

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ceive that, by a peculiar arrangement, the waters might be made to lift themselves to a sufficient height, to flow into, and supply abundantly, the "crowning city."

Perhaps the engineers of the day were not sufficiently acquainted with the science of hydrostatics to know that water would always rise to a level with its source, if confined. Nor did they, perhaps, reflect where the sources of these abundant springs were hidden.

The Lebanon chain near by has its highest summits covered with snow during most of the year, the melting of which not only supplies all the streams round about in every direction, but fills the subterranean reservoirs in the bosom of the mountain. Through the fissures of the limestone rock, these reservoirs discharge themselves in the lower levels, through the fountain of the precipice and the spring of the meadow.

The wise constructor of the monuments here referred to conceived the idea of elevating these waters by vast cisterns of masonry, built around the springs, thirty and forty feet in diameter, and thirty feet high; before doing which, however, he caused the rock to be cut down to a great depth, in steps converging towards the centre. The water, thus confined, rose, and still rises, sufficiently high to be carried by an aqueduct to Tyre, remains of which are yet to be seen for a great distance. At present, of the vast quantity of water discharged over the brims of these beautiful basins, a part is used to propel several mills; and there is now being erected a woollen factory, by order of Ibrahim Pacha. Why may it not have been so used in the time of Hiram? The surplus water now forms cascades, which deposite stalactites wherever they flow, and then finds its way through the meadows to the sea. Several Roman aqueducts run in different directions from this common centre. Of the immense antiquity of these magnificent wells, there is not the shadow of a doubt; and as to their origi

nating with Solomon there is great probability, as the tradition is not derived from the Christians of the crusades, but from the Arabs, who are generally much nearer the truth.

This day will be the fifth of our pilgrimage in Syria, and so far I have been much gratified with what I have seen, and much interested in the reminiscences which attach to everything around me. Besides, I am highly delighted with this mode of travelling; so independent, so exciting, so conducive to health, and to me so novel and amusing.

A hundred little incidents daily occur, too trifling to notice separately, but, as a whole, making a sum total of amusement and enjoyment which I never experienced when rolling over the Macadamized roads of Europe in a well-appointed chariot and four. I hope the long route I have yet before me may prove equally pleasant with the beginning, but that I can scarcely expect. When we get more into the interior, I must look for greater fatigue and privations, if not some positive dangers; yet my every want is anticipated and provided for by my kind conductors, whose increasing watchfulness is ever on the alert, that no discomfort may annoy, and no harm reach me. But my chief de. pendance is on that kind Providence which has carried me thus far through so many dangers, and has so frequently preserved my life in times of imminent peril. May he continue to be the guide of my footsteps, and the guardian of my welfare unto the end; and may he sanctify to me the inestimable privilege that I am about to enjoy, that of treading the same paths, and taking shelter under the same rocks which, in their wanderings through the Holy Land, my Re. deemer and his apostles were wont to frequent.

And may I return from my pilgrimage to the place of the birth, the death, the resurrection, and the ascension of my Saviour, both wiser and better than at present! I know that you will sincerely join with me in desiring such a consummation; and I once more bid you adieu.