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LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE.
For MARCH, 1806.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.
No. 1. BEDFORD Pelisse and Hat, colour, | or at the ball; a circumstance arising principally
La Bou de Paris, trimmed with furto from the choice of the colours. match.
The pale yellow colour, which is extremely No. 2. TRAFALGAR Dress, white satin, trim- elegant in the day for beautiful women, appears med with gold, or silver lace.
soiled in the evening, and tends very much to No. 3. York MANTLE and Hat, seal-skin, or diminish the glow, and impair the brilliancy of the
Gregorian cloth, edging, orange and scarlet, complexion. Dress is become so astonishingly India-pattern. Walking Dress.-Cambric | capricious, that a lady is not considered fashionmuslin, with work.
able, if she appears in public two successive No. 4. BEDFORD Hat, purple velvet and gold, days with the same bonnet. Some variety must with white feathers.
be given, either by super-adding fresh ornaments, No. 5. Court Dress CAP, white crape, and or new-modelling the old. The colours of bonsilver Tiara in front.
nets and gowns are so often varied, that the No. 6. COURT Dress BANDEAU, crape and gown which corresponds with a bonnet one day, gold.
is upon the next, contradictory to real taste and No. 7. VELVET CAP, colour to fancy.
elegance. Our most favourite promenades have
not been, during the last month, strikingly con. PARISIAN DRESSES.
spicuous for the display of dress; we have, how. No.8, Cloth Great Coat, in the Hussar style.
ever, seen some very graceful Turkish-slate co
loured velvet turbans, ornamented with fur of No. 9. A Morning Dress. No. 10. Cambric Bonnet, satin neckhandker- the same colour; they have a rich effect, and
are confined to the nobility, and the more aschief, trimmed with Marten-skin.
piring classes of fashion. The most prevalent No. 11. Complete Full Dress.
pelisses are made of black velvet, with a flounce No. 12. Half Full Dress.
of deep rich black lace; this last walking dress
is worn by all kinds of fashionables, which renLONDON FASHIONS FOR MARCH.
ders it common, and is abandoned by those who The more elegant the taste, the more superior | pretend to real taste and novelty. All kinds of the beauty of a lady, the less she has occasion for bonnets, from a straw to a black velvet turban, ornaments; her dress, therefore, should he sim- | are worn with black velvet pelisses; the latter ple and unaffected. This incontestable truth turban is sometimes ornamented with a black shouid convince our London Fashionables, that feather, in which case it must hang gracefully the only improvement in dress consists in a su over the forehead; it has then some claims to peradded simplicity and gracefulness, and not in attraction, when worn by an elegant woman. a singularity of costume of any kind whatever. | Straw turbans with two pale roses, one blown, The dress that appears the most elegant in the and the other a bud, is a spring hat, and likely okay, would ill become the evening, at the opera, to become fashionable: in short, velvet and straw No. I. Vol.I.
bonnets, are the only head-dresses worn for walk | clining towards the opposite corner of the hat. ing. Dome crowns and gipsey straw hats are Hats and small bonnets are, in general, made of likely to be the most prevalent fashion for the two colours; satin stripes of the same colour as ensuing month. The ladies in the boxes of the edging form the ornament of the crowns of the opera, display, in general, much elegance; | bonnets. The ribband in the front, if any be many wear the sleeves of their gowns cut in the worri, takes place of the plaited border, and is Spanish style; these kind of sleeves are only cut into Artichoke leaves. Black velvet for hats seen with full dress gowns; white muslin gowns and small bonnets, is as much worn as dark blue tastefully embroidered, are very general. – A and brown cloths are for great coats. A long white or light blue satin turban, ornamented || steel buckle, of an oval form, confines the vel. with white down, contribute much to the ele vet band round the crowns of small bonnets, gance of this half dress. Velvet mantles grace which makes a conspicuous ornament for the the shoulders of the London Fashionables, and front of this kind of bonnets. White, grey, pale when elegantly drapered on the back, are very rose, nut, chocolate, dark green, and dark yeltasteful and striking. Many ladies wear at balls, low velvets are always fashionable for collegeand fashionable assemblies, their hair fancifully caps. Some grounds of full dress hats, of dressed ; a neat small square comb, ornament satin or velvet, are embroidered with the whitest ed with pearls, is placed in the front; the hair silver that can be procured; the design is a kind thus dressed, precludes the necessity of any other of star, which is embellished with figured leaves species of head-dresses.
instead of rays. At the Milliner's, the satin for Necklaces are fashionable, and cannot be too hats and the generality of ribbands, are a style of monastic; these kinds of necklaces are only delicate rose colour; however, white satin and worn in half full-dress; red coral necklaces, with ribbands are likely to become fashionable. The a small watch set in pearls, attached to a string of hats of the Millinery Misses have a tuft in the red corals, are beconing fashionable. White || front, which descends on the eye-brows; but tippets are very general ; they are considered the ears remain entirely uncovered. Velvet, elegant and necessary; muffs are scarcely ever worked in white, and white ribbands, amply emseen; fashion requires them to be white, when broidered with velvet, have been much in request they are adopted. White or rose-coloured silk | during the last few days. Some Milliners use stockings, with a narrow clock, not embroidered, || dark yellow for the 'ining of black bonnets. Yel. are the only silk stockings that adorn the feet of low is used to ornament black velvet college the models of fashion.
caps. Green pistachios are used with white. FeaThe dress of a Lady is beginning to be less thers are much in fashion, they are worn both in sumptuous, of course it is less expensive. Lace full and half full dress. On many hair headis now almost rejected, except in the embellish dresses the bunch of flowers is worn small, placed ment of mantles. Ridicules have completely || behind the head, and frequently concealed in the perished, and the pocket is at length restored to hollow of the comb. Bengal roses, or its usual place. Laced half-boots, in the Chinese
roses, are still inost in vogue. Florists are not style, are fashionable for walking.
satisfied with imitating the Bengal rose, and the scarcest flowers of the East; they are now
endeavouring to extend their art to kitchen garPARISIAN FASHIONS,
den plants, which they colour to the whim of FOR FEBRUARY, 1806.
the purchaser. The honer-suckle, which is also
a Aower much in vogue at Balls, is worn of all llend dress à la Ninon, are more numerous fancy colours, such as rose, black, and dead than ever, and resemble, with an encreasing ex leaves; there are som eren made to resemble actness, their true model, Petito!'s enamel; oak. Hair head-dresses are very simple; they which is to be seen at the Napoleon Museum. I consist of hair smoothed at the sides, with On each side of the face, there are now four, a braid of hair formed into a cabbage, and a tuft five, and even eight curls of hair formed into
of curls, or some curls hanging on the forehead; the shape of a cork-screw; and, behind, the hair is
this head-dress is considered particularly neat and collected, sinoothed, or circularly involved, in- | elegant. Hats, ornamented with fur, would have stead of being made up into a cabbage, and been very general, had not the late incessant plaited into the figure of cork-screws.
rains prevented the Amazonians from gracing the grounds of full dress college-caps are ornamented
promenades. The last fashion for the above hats with steel. Full dress hats are almost all turned is quite novel, they are made of a fawn colour; up on one side with a loop or a button; behind the brims are raised on each side to the height of the turned-up part of the hat is a feather which the sliape, and are cut round to resemble a fan. crosses the hat with the point of the feather in Gowns for Balls are short, and in general of a
white or rose-colour; but are always made of The Promenade, in Hyde Park, the only gecrape. A single ribband is worn round the waist, neral one, where beauty and fashion now deign has long ends, and hangs in the front. A rib to exhibit their combined attractions by daylight, band, gath red tastefully, trims the inferior edg was on Sunday last literally crouded by both;
and the rival titles to rank and admiration were ing of the gown; the same kind of trimming sets off the ends of sleeves. A detached bunch of displayed in a fascinating contest for the palm of Aower, is worn above the gathering of the sleeves ; || experience.
The dresses of the Fashionables were, for the and two large bunches of the same Aowers are fixed a little above the knees, the other a little most part, of that character called Demi-saison; above the inferior border of the gown.
the bear-muff and tippet were visible only with Head-dresses à la Titus, are in general seen at
a few Grisettes and Dowagers of the Bourgeois. Balls; they have no kind of ornaments. Long or The prevailing head-dress of the leading Ton, short full-dressed gowns are almost all made of
were beaver hats à la turban, with a light trimrose, white, or chamois satin, à l'Espagnole. The ming of snow-white swansdown; also beavers of pelisses for dress are made à la Turque, without
what are termed the Spinish and Jochey forms, collars, and are not crossed over the breasts. of various colours, were still much worn; as Five buttons may be worn on the front of a ball were bonnets and hats of straw, of different gown, and a sloping garland of flowers may also shapes; the most elegant were those gracebe worn instead of flowers. The ribbands are fully turned up in front, lined with various always white, whatever kinds are worn. A coloured velvets, and oherwise ornamented bunch of Howers at the side relieves the gown
with artificial flowers or silk trimming, agreefrom the necessity of a trimming of Auwers. ably to the fancy of the wearers. But the Fashion suggests violets for the side of gowns.
head-dresses most nouvelle and elegant, and The breasts are ornamented with large hanging
worn by Ladies of the highest Fashion wele lace, which is a fashion extremely prevalent.
formed of velvets, and were principally hats or Of all kinds of combs, the most adopted are
turbans, turned up with different colours of the those which are ornamented above the gold with same fabric, and trimmed with swansdown or a detached row of pearls. Ear-rings made of light furs ; and some which wore a superior air pearls, forming a bunch of grapes, and these
of novelty, were made with a drooping peak or forming serpents made of gold, or enamelled gold, | purse, falling down behind like the undress cap are the most general. It is fashionable to wear of an hussar, and ornamenter with silk tassels, a shawl over a great coat, pelisse, or
and a small ostrich feather in front, of the same
colour as the vet Mameluke. The most elegant velvet for
cap, which attracted much admiraMamelukes is light blue; but many made of tion. black velvet are worn. Laced veils are worn Pelisses, and robes of velvet cloth and silk, conin all their extent, suspended before the face; tinue to be much worn, but the most fashionable muslin veils, on the contrary, are worn divided and elegant were those of dove-coloured velvet, and turned on one side of the head. An em worn loose and open before, embroidered in silk broidered muslin ridicule is festooned with lace : of the same colour down the front, with a runwe have seen some cherry-coloured velvet made ning foliage of rine, or olive leaves. Spencers of into ridicules; they are richly embroidered in silk and velvet were also inuch worn, and somie gold.
few shawls were perceptible.
By the way, it is only wonderful that such an
article of dress as the shawl should ever have OBSERVATION ON FASHONS, found its path to fashionable adoption, in the va.
rious circles of British taste. In its forim, nothing As they appeared to an Ohserver on Sunday last,
can be more opposite to every principle of refined during a Promenade in Hyde Park. taste, or carry less the appearance of that elegant
simplicity at which it aims. It is calculated The genial mildness of an nusually fine
much more to conceal and vulgarize, than to spring, which has already decked vegetation with | display, or regulate the contour of an elegant the budding promise of luxuriant verdure, has || form, and is totally destitute of every idea of ease, also banished from fashionable costume those | elegance, or dignity. Whatever charms it may cumbrous draperies and gross furry ornaments have for the sickly taste of the tauny BELLES of which so recently distinguished the prevailing the torrid zone, nothing but that “witching taste, and were continued, through one of the || beauty” which occasionally reils itself in the mildest winters ever experienced in our atno. rusticity and homeliness (like the Sun, its mists sphere, as though British beauty were shivering and clouds) that it may dazzle anew, with the reunder the chilling influence of Siberian skies, fulgent splendorofits taste and charms, could rein.
der even tolerable the introduction of an habili- || the most elegant trifle. One sees a breakfast ment, which turns any female, not beautiful and cup, entitled “ The Gift of Love.” On each elegant, into an absolute Dowdy. It is the very con- side of the cup are inscriptions relative to the trast to the flowing elegance of Grecian costume, subject. On the right side, “ Love revenges whose light and transparent draperies so admirably Perfidy.” On the left, “ Love repays Condisplay the female form; and it restores some stancy.” And the niiddle, “ A promise of an thing almost a disgusting, in the upper part of fe hundred kisses payable to the Bearer.” Happy male dress, as the double fortified hoop, and the the petit maitre who can present such bill when nine-times-quilted petticoat of the last century. he finds pretty women that will indorse them.
As to the Beaux Garcons, little of novelty ap- | The dancing parties are those which present the peared in their dresses to attract notice. From the greatest variety of fashion. Two uniform dresses almost universal prevalence of boots and lower are enjoined, one for the ladies, who are specgarments, all would seem to have just come from tators merely, and one for those who are performthe manege; though nine-tenths of those jockeys ers. When they go as spectators, the ladies may be fairly classed with the dismounted cavalry. clothe themselves most richly. A gown of The only novelty observable with beaux of the velvet or satin, with a fine train, covered with promenade is, that their hats, from the order of gold embroidery, and a head-dress to correspond; the broad-slouch, are again rapidly returning to | but those who dance are very differently drest, the opposite extreme: so that a fashionable light and sylphic; scarcely are their tender forms jockey bonnet now bears strong resemblance to covered with a fold of crape; no train, no fullness the helinet of Mambrino, celebrated in the ad on the hips, no encumbering ornaments. By ventures of the renowned Don Quixote ; to whose this contrast in the dresses, a Gentleman can equally celebrated steed Rozinante might justly be distinguish, at first sight, the Lady who chuses to assimilated many of the bits of blood which kept | dance, from her who sacrifices the pleasure to the up the dash of rotten-row on this occasion. rage of gaudy show.
PARISIAN NOVELTIES AND CUSTOMS.-Presents of porcelain, are at this time considered
London: Printed by and for J. Bell, Southampton Street, Strand.