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straw hat, with plain, or with a light flowing ostrich feather, white edged with pale blue.The hair in the Egyptian style, with large curls on the forehead. But the conversation straw bonnet and gipsy hat, plain or with purple or fancy coloured silk bandeau were still much worn, as were coiffures of fancy-coloured silk. With the first rate élégantes, the Spanish and Egyptian mantle, and spencer Espagnole, were much worn, of various materials. Some were of primrose, peach blossom, purple, and changeable coloured sarsnets, trimmed round with a border

Some amazons tie a coloured hunting neckbandkerchief over it. Many cambric bonnets are worn; the rims are always edged with heavy twisted cord made of the same. Puckers made to resemble wolves teeth are fancifully dispersed at the bottom of most fashionable gowns. Large shaw's, which cross over the breasts and tie behind, were never more general than at present; sometimes a small striped silk neck-handkerchief take their place, and is tied exactly in the same way. Poppies, roses, and ranunculus are all fashionable flowers. Cloudy ribbons are very general; but the most fashionable colour is deli-ing of broad lace, black or white, or of fancy coloured ribbons, or transparent embroidery. Some were of white japanned muslin or trans

cate green, and delicate rose colours are very predominant. Shoes laced on the instep, made of naskin coloured leather, are very prevalent.-parent figured leno, lined with purple or rose coGloves, for undress, are made of netted cotton; the open work much resembling birds' eyes..

FASHIONS.

THE anniversary of his Majesty's birth-day, as it usually presents the last grand display of courtly elegance for the fashionable season in the metropolis, is of course generally supposed to give the final and permanent stamp of tourneur to fashionable dress for the summer, and consequently to establish, for the remainder of the year, the standard of taste, on this point, throughout the empire.

In our account of the dresses worn by personages of the first taste and distinction who appeared at Court on the birth day, will be found a picture of splendour, taste, and elegance rarely if ever equalled, but certainly never surpassed on any former occasion; for never on any former occasion, since British taste was emancipated from the stiff, jundry, and fantastical trammels of the old French school, did the style of female attire approach so nearly to the true standard of perfection as at the present day, when the happy union of ease and elegance, founded on the classic principles of the Grecian æra, so eminently contribute to set off with advantage every charm of beauty, every native grace of the female "form divine."

The last general display of fashion we had the opportunity of witnessing since the birth day was on the fashionable promenades in Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens for the last few Sundays, which, in a season remarkably fine, and from the unusual detention of fashionable families in town by a very late Session of Parliament, have been unusually crowded at so advanced a period of the summer.

We observed that the general style of female dress differed not very widely from what we described in our last. The Egyptian head-dress continues to prevail more generally. The turban

loured sarsnet, which had an effect extremely rich and elegant; others were entirely of rich black lace.

The under dresses were generally of white or coloured muslins, with trains extremely long, and not a few beautiful and elegant figures were attired in dresses of cloud coloured crape or transparent muslin, whose filmy texture changing in tint and shade from the ever-varying folds of this gossamer drapery, seemed to wrap the elegant wearers in robes of light impalpable ether, and impress the gazing throng rather with the idea of celestial than of earthly beings.

Large shawls of silk or mohair were also much worn, and in various shapes; some in the form of a flowing mantle, appending from the shoulders, with a hood; others à la Turque; others again square. But the most elegantly simple style of either the shawl or Egyptian mantle that arrested the fancy, were those of plain or japanned white muslin, with a large Egyptian border of deep green, in tambour or embroidery.

Loose spencers of pale blue, or apple-blossom sarsnet, or cambric muslin, were also a good deal worn; as were pelices and spencers of plain nankin, which had an air of simple elegance and coolness highly appropriate to the season.

Fancy-coloured silk, nankin, and jean shoes and buskins were much worn; and parasols of white cambric were very generally in use.

The Gardens for the last the Sundays have been unusually thronged with rank, beauty, and fashion; and the display of elegánce truly fascinating.

REMARKS on the judicious Arrangement of
Apparel, particularly addressed to the Ladies.

IT has been frequently observed, and deplored by persons of discriminating taste, that in decorating their persons-the generality of women blindly follow what is called the fashion, merely because it is so; without once considering whe

ther such a mode suits with their style of countenance, figure, or complexion. That a beautiful woman may disguise herself by an injudicious choice or disposition of her attire, and a plain one counteract the deficiencies of nature, so as to render herself agreeably attractive, almost every one must have witnessed. Beauty, therefore, with a bad taste, is less desirable than a fine taste without beauty.

"What awkward creature is that?" said a gentleman to me the other evening at a supper party, pointing to a slatternly beauty, who sat with her chin almost reposing on her bosom, and shoulders advanced to her ears.

"That is a very elegant woman," he presently repeated, directing my attention to a lady who was certainly (her person abstractedly considered), what one would denominate a plain woman; but to whom the well-adapted, unstudied, yet tasteful elegance of her attire, had given a charm and attaction which claimed general admiration.

While thus, however, I recommend attention to personal decorations, I would not be supposed to encourage an inordinate care on that which is comparatively trifling, to those solid and indispensable acquirements which should adorn the amiable woman and the Christian. It should be remembered that it is not she who spends the most time at her toilette who is usually best dressed. A too zealous care generally destroys effect. A multiplicity of ornaments ever detracts from beauty, and renders deformity the more conspicuous. A multiplicity of colours bespeaks a vulgar mind.

from the height, and obscure, the symmetry o inany a neat little figure. Females, whose throats are lean, brown, or coarse, should even in public cover them with some dressy ornament: quiltings of net lace have a pretty effect.

No lady, however regardless of modesty, or sanctioned by custom or birth, can shew her arms to advantage beyond the rounding which extends to the shoulder-nor her bosom below its rising. When the sight is limited, the imagination increases; and the delicate and judicious female will preserve the veil that shades, rather than adopt the fashion that discloses.

The bracelet and armlet are the most becoming ornaments to a fine and white arm; but on those which are coarse or ill-made, all decoration is but a presumptuous exposition of their defects.

A lady with a well-turned ankle should never wear her petticoats too short: cheap exhibitions soon sink into contempt. A thousand little natural opportunities occur to disclose this attraction, without any ostentatious display of their own. No ornament for the leg and foot can be too plainly elegant. A handsome white silk stocking, with black or fawn-coloured shoes, exceed all other covering for chasteness and simplicity. In full-dress, white silk or kid are con sistent and pretty. The coloured buskin mayhave been adopted by some élégantes, but must ever be considered by persons of genuine taste as heavy and unornamental, and can never be at all consistently worn but in the winter. The pantaloons are likely to have but a short run; they are very cumbersome, and truly ungraceful. Silk hats, à la turban, have of late been adopted

A white costume is without exception the by many of our fashionables. They are ge most becoming garb for women of all complex-nerally covered with leno, or fine embroidered ions; but the colours which relieve them must be regulated by good taste, to give a pleasing consistency to the contour.

A fair or pale woman should never wear yellow or green; the colours from which they derive most advantage being pale pink, pale blue, lilac, and primrose.

Dark or brown women should not appear in these colours; they may wear pink or blue, but the shade must be deeper. Yellow, coquelicot, and amber, agree best with dark hair and eyes. Green can never have a becoming effect on any but complexions naturally florid; and, though a colour genteel and graceful in itself, casts a weight on the countenance if introduced too near, and seldom gives any additional attraction to the wearer.

The bosom and arms should always be covered in a morning, nor should any but little women be seen in long dresses before dinner. The curricle-dress, jackets and flounced petticoats, should never be worn by short women-they detract

muslin; and have a neat unobtrusive effect.

The gipsy hat and cloak is a most distinguishing out-door covering, but suits only women tall in stature and graceful in their carriage.

We never recollect a greater variety of fancy cloaks than has been introduced this spring. The Spanish cloak now gives place to the Grecian scarf, which is exceedingly elegant.

Lace and work is introduced as much as ever round the bottoms and sleeves, and up the front of dresses.

Embroidered shirts still hold their station as the most approved and fashionable covering for the bosom in a morning; indeed we know not of any substitute which could supplant this very be coming and chaste ornament.

The hair is more lightly confined in dress within this last month; yet still the Grecian style and ornament prevails. At the opera we distin guished numbers with bands of hair crossed plain over the forehead, with a large diamond or gold pigeon broach in front, and tightly twisted up

behind with a comb to correspond. A few Turkish turbans, of silver or plain muslin, were observed; the roll very large.

Bosoms and arms much, too much exposed! Why will English women thus injudiciously sacrifice, at the shrine of fashion, one of their first ornaments and most attractive charms, modesty!!

C. M.

and their feelings would operate in favour of humanity and common sense. But fashion prides itself in singularity, and rivalship, and dissipation in excess: amidst the contending emotions they create, reflection is as a banished guest; and reason, indignant, resigns her seat.

But lest I should be considered as treating too seriously a subject which by many will be thought trifling, I will advert to some of the humourous

To the EDITOR of LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE. suggestions of that writer whose subject I have SIR,

PERUSING your account of fashions in the last number of La Belle Assemblée, I was struck with some ingenious remarks on the long trains which have of late become a distinguishing appendage to the fashionable females of various descriptions. I am happy to perceive that the author of these observations evidently possesses discrimination of talent, and that epigrammatic diction, which seizes the spirit of a subject, and points aptly the aim to the end. This style of writing is likely to produce considerable benefit in an age-when the moralist preaches in vain-when sentiment is quizzed out of countenance by bold sensualityand virtue retires to weep in the shade.

I agree most decidedly with the former writer on this subiect; and acknowledge that there is great inconvenience attending those useful ornaments styled trains. I admit that they give increased grace and dignity to a fine figure when judiciously adopted. That they are indispensable in the drawing-room of St. James's, and admitted on the smooth and verdant lawn of a gentleman's park; but in the streets, the theatres, or crowded rooms, what are they but so many public dusters?

Yet the evil rests not here-nor has the able writer, in whose path I thus willingly tread, pointed out all the public injury arising from this fashionable superabundance of decoration; except, indeed, where he makes this pathetic appeal.

"For pity's sake, Ladies, no longer permit your dress to be a public calamity!" I carry on the invocation, and add―let not your grace centre in an extravagant display of a few yards of muslin; but curtail this superfluity in favour of those to whom Providence has denied the necessaries of life! The complacent smile of benevolence will then add lustre to your charms; and you will shine bright in the unfading graces of the heart!

If our fashionable fair gave themselves but time to reflect, I am convinced that we should have no cause to appeal in vain. Their reason

endeavoured to enlarge on. When what is called the world seems to sanction a fashion, absurd or injurious beyond the reach of conviction, or the probability of reclaim, it is the part of a judicious and conscientious moralist to exercise his talents, in extracting those salubrious particles which may be contained in the poisonous mass: and who but must give credit to the ingenious method which the writer of a former paper on this subject has proposed, to deduce solid and positive good from existing evil. Excellent proposition, which Minerva herself will not fail to approve.— That our belles be allowed to continue their long trains, in order to induce our beaux to return to their studies, and simpering fops to become geometricians. Never was there a suggestion more replete with ingenuity, or more likely to produce general utility. Will not fathers, whose family estates are in danger of being swept away by the heir-apparent in trifling pursuits and vicious pleasures, have reason to immortalize the man who brought into fashionable practice, mathematical calculation, consideration, and measurement.How many mansions, which industry has reared and regularity preserved, will then be saved from the rapacious hand of an empty, dissipated inheritor! What a profusion of froth will be expunged from the brain! And how many vacancies will be supplied with solid matter, to the honour of individual worth and national improvement. Continue then your trains, dear ladies, with all their inconvenience! but with this proviso, that in future no beaux (however elegant, fashionable, or insinuating) shall advance within their length, either in front, abreast, or in the rear; unless they bring a passport from the temple of Minerva, the college of Genius, the repository of good sense, or the seminary of general utility.

Thus even your trains, hitherto the subject of censure, shall be converted into a public benefit; and their present incongruity be forgotten in the general good they have produced.

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton Street, Strand.

C.M.

OR,

Bell's

COURT AND FASHIONABLE.
MAGAZINE,

FOR JULY, 1506.

EMBELLISHMENTS.

1. An admirable Portrait Likeness of Her Royal Highness the PRINCESS ELIZABETH, engraved by Scriven, with permission, from the Original and highly esteemed Picture by Sir William Beechey.

2. Four elegant whole length Figures in the Costume of the Month.

3 An Original Song, set to Music by Mr. Reeve, expressly for this Work.

4. A beautiful New Pattern for Needle-Work.

5. An Engraved Facsimile of an Original Letter, written by BONAPARTE in Egypt, intercepted by LORD NELSON.

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS- | BEAUTIES OF MODERN LITERATURE.

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POETRY AND MUSIC.

294

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500

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302

RETROSPECT OF POLITICS, Foreign and Domestic, for Julv, 1806 .. £30

PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS

The Golden Mirror; or, the Kings of She-
shian: a true history, translated from the
Sheshianese

Ladies' Toilette; or, Encyclopædia of Beauty 298
Character of the Atheist Woman....
Extraordinary Forewarning.....
An Original Letter from Bonaparle, written
in Egypt, meditating his return to Europe,
intercepted by Lord Nelson; and his Pro-
clamation, with a Fac-simile of his Letter,
and Lord Nelson's writing on the Cover.. 305
The Secretaire; or, the Fine Lady's Day.. 307
The World as it is

Strength of Human Understanding
Thoughts on Generosity

Amaryllis; a Pastoral

A Morning Walk recommended

Friends in a Future State

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308

LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE. Explanation of the Fashionable Prints 309 London Fashions for the Present Month.. 310 General Observations on the Fashion...

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London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton Street, Strand, August 1, 1806.

THE INTENDED

SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER

For the First Volume is necessarily deferred until the next Month, in order to give it a most distinguished character, by an extraordinary rich Embellishment, and a greater variety of Classical Criticisms.

IN order to render this Work as perfect as possible, it has been suggested to the Proprietors, that a REVIEW and CRITICAL ACCOUNT of the Literature of the day was necessary, as well from the want of a Work of this kind upon a principle of selection and elegance, as from the necessity of supplying the Subscribers of this Magazine with an Account of NEW BOOKS, which they would otherwise have to seek in the common Reviews.-The Proprietors, therefore, have been induced to offer to the Public a SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER, to be published Half Yearly, which will be deliverd with every Six Numbers of the Magazine, and conclude the Volume to which it is attached. The SUPPLEMENT will contain a Review of Literature for the previous six months, and will proceed upon the plan which has been so deservedly popular in the Edinburgh Reviews.Its general principle will be the selection of such Books as, from their pretensions, the novelty of their subjects, and the reputation of their Authors, are most likely to interest the Public.-As the Works selected will be most conspicuous for Literature, so the method of the Review, it is trusted, will be equally conspicuous for its candour and impartiality.-The extracts from Books will be very sparing indeed, never more than will be sufficient to give a general sample of their character and style, as the object of the Editors is to confine their Criticisms chiefly to ORIGINAL DISCUSSION, and to trespass as little as possible upon the ordinary functions of a Review.

As the SUPPLEMENT will always conclude the Volume to which it is appended, it will, of consequence, contain a PREFACE and general INDEX to the previous Numbers; and the Decorative Parts will be of a character and quality far superior to what has hitherto appeared in any periodical Works, and which, when considered with a reference to the Ornaments of the other Numbers, will uniformly render the SUPFLEMENT more estimable than any of the preceding.

In the SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER to be published, will be given a FRONTISPIECE, characteristic of the Work, and a suitable appendage to the Volume-The most EMINENT ARTIST of the modern age, the man to whom the British School is chiefly indebted for the present renown and lustre of its character, has presented the Proprietors of this Work with a DESIGN for the FRONTISPIECE, which will be engraven in style of excellence correspondent with its merits.-A greater quantity of the Supplemental Number will be published than of any of the preceding, in order that the Public in general may be supplied, as well as the Subscribers.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

AN extraordinary influx of very excellent matter with which we have been favoured from different Correspondents this month, after our necessary supply for the present Number has been printed, demands our immediate and grateful acknowledgments. Favours received, and not inserted in this Number, shall appear or be particularly noticed in

our next.

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