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with fine lace, are worn by many ladies of fashion instead of hats, a large veil is worn over them, which serves as a drapery for the whole figure; fancy hats and bonnets are not so genteel as plain. Lace caps are also as much worn as ever, trimmed with flowers, or silk handkerchiefs, but ribbands, are not so much in use for them as last month.

The variety of colours worn at this moment renders it impossible to say which are the most fashionable, but the most prevailing are straw, pink, lemon, and lavender.

PARISIAN FASHIONS.

Straw hats are in the highest degree of favour: they wear yellow straw hats without any ornaanent whatever, but a bunch of lilac or a ribbon of pink or white, which flows loosely. Hats of white chip are sometimes interwoven with silkfor example, a rim of chip, then one of silk or ribband; this variation is pretty, but above all new. Such is the enormous front of a straw hat, that the two extremities of the edge can meet, and fasten under the chin; but the most fashionable of all are the poke (those English poke bonnets, that were formerly so much ridiculed by the French Ladies), with huge square fronts, and tassels of exact proportion on either side: as these projecting fronts are so large, to prevent the wind from deranging them, sometimes they add besides the parallel tassels, silk cord crossed several times over the front from side to side, which sufficiently confines it.

FOR HALF DRESS-A crape cap is sometimes worn, bordered all round with a wreath of large roses; at the Opera, white and pink hats very small are worn, bordered with pearls, and ornamented with feathers. Every dress has a scarf to suit, but this scarf is not always made to serve for a sash as well; it is sometimes tied in a knot at the side, with two long ends. The sleeves are worn short and full, and composed of ribband and muslin mixed.

Instead of a watch, the gentlemen wear a fausse montre, formed of a serpent, which bites its tail, which thus makes a circle. Sometimes there are four little serpents, whose tails are contrived to tie in the form of a ring, while their breasts meet, and their heads are erect, which forms a broach at present the most fashionable. Often, instead of a watch chain, the dashing gentlemen wear a large twisted serpent, which holds within the pocket (instead of a watch), five little twisted serpents disposed in a circle.

They dance with pleasure the country dance, particularly the English, the Gavotte tolerably, L'Allemande carelessly, but the Venetian is the dance most in vogue, and which fills both actors and spectators with enthusiasm.

HYDE PARK & KENSINGTON-GARDENS.

THE same genial temperature of May which has induced nature to assume her gaudiest tints, and dressed the vegetable tribes in the richest attire of verdure and blossoms, has also banished from fashionable dress every vestige of that character termed demi-saison, and introduced the light and airy robes of summer. The grand parade of fashion, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, displayed, on Sunday last, the most crowded assemblage of beauty and haut-ton that have as yet appeared this season; and the principal novelties of dress which attracted observation were mantles of the Egyptian stile, of various colours and materials; some of purple sarsnet or taffeta, covered by a transparent veil of white lace, or thin tamboured muslin, and trimmed with broad rich lace; others of saffron, or primrose sarsnet, or taffeta, covered in like manner, or tastefully worked in sprigs of tambour or embroidery, and trimmed with lace, Mantles which had an effect truly elegant. entirely of black or purple lace were also much worn; but the spenser Espagnol and Spanish cloak seemed to have considerably lost ground in the regions of taste. Hats and tiaras of white satin and various coloured silks were also much worn; but the simple elegance of straw hats, turbans, and bonnets still maintains its claim to fashionable choice; and consequently they continue to be much worn, of various forms; and for the greater part, tastefully ornamented with wreaths or sprigs of artificial shrubs or flowers; the most prevalent rose, lilac, hyacinth, and auricula; but the most elegant in appearance were wreaths and demi-wreaths of convolvolus, jessamine, or myrtle. Rich Indian shawls too were much worn, but in a style of easy grace that has much removed our objection to that favourable and fashionable appendage. Underdresses were universally of white japan, and other muslins, with very long trains. Spensers of royal purple, or light-blue taffeta, were always general, but very few pelices even of the lightest materials appeared. Green, purple, and partycoloured silk parasols, richly fringed with gold or saffron-coloured silk, were very generally in use, and buskins of fawn-coloured velvet, or plain nankin laced up in front, completed the costume of the promenade.

But the dress which appeared tout ensemble the most novel, tasteful, attractive, and truly ele. gant, was worn by a lady whose majestic mien and stature, combined with every charming beauty and feminine sweetness, forci ly personified Milton's description of our first pa

rent:

"Grace was in all her steps, heaven in her looks "In every motion dignity and love."

The dress to which we allude was a coiffure of white satin, formed exactly like the trencher caps of our Westminster students. The tassel at top was a rich bunch of small strung pearls, and it was tastefully looped up on the left side by a festoon of the same precious materials. An Egyptian mantle of white transparent lace, lined with royal purple sarsnet, elegantly but simply trimmed with a broad rich lace, descended from her shoulders behind, and a long train of Japan muslin swept the verdant turf-o'er which she moved with a grace angelic, that attracted every eye, and won universal admiration; we understood this fascinating personage was a Lady of rank recently married; but whom it would perhaps be impolitic to name after a description so particular.

WE have received several letters from correspondents with very serious complaints against the enormous length of our fashionable women's trains. They state, that in all our parties, and places of public amusement, it is almost impossible to stir without treading on a lady's train. We are convinced that nothing adds more to a noble and majestic demeanour, but still it is by no means necessary to interrupt the public way by a pompous display of graces. If we were to calculate the extent of the fashionable promenades by the space which one of our élégantes occupies in walking there, it would be absolutely necessary to call in the aid of a little practical geometry, and we are afraid, in consequence of this, some of our beaux would be compelled to return to their studies, and attend à course of lectures in that science. What an alteration would not this make in the beau-monde? The simpering fops would become geometricians, their minds bent on calculation.

It would be pleasant enough to see the newly created students with rules in their hands measuring the length and breadth of their fair ones' trains, and this operation finished, methodically demonstrating with mathematical precision the extent of the promenade; or, that the graces of Lady D- exceeded those of Lady P by two or three feet. This would not be the first time merit has been measured by the ell.

According to the history of trains it appears, that in former ages their length determined the greater or less eminent degree of power and rank. In some ancient prints the trains which, on days of ceremony, our magistrates wore, lay on the ground at least three yards.

Were it to become fashionable among our élégantes in this manner to establish the rank they should hold in society, heaven knows how far vanity would enlarge the volume of the graces. At the theatre we should see Mrs.

enter a box, while her train was on the stairs, and in going out it would be in the lobby when she would be stepping into her carriage. Let us not anticipate futurity, nor suppose the evil greater than it is at present The trains, such as they now are, are hurtful to public salubrity. In summer what raises those clouds of dust of an evening in St. James's and the Green Park? The trains. What, consequently, renders the air breathed there so fatal to delicate, lungs, and causes so many colds, sore throats, and consumptions? The trains,-the unfortunate trains. The greater part of mankind go there to exhale the pure and uncontaminated air, but return suffocated. They must necessarily remain at home, or fly into a desert. In winter, at all our balls and routs, the evil is increased rather than diminished. It would be an insult to the host to appear at one of them without a train, or having one to hold it up, and it is impossible to describe the consequences which must result from a carpet badly brushed, or an ill chalked floor.

Sometimes, to oblige the ladies to take up these instruments of death, we have seen mischievous coxcombs set their foot on that part which lay on the ground. The lady, wishing to disengage her train, seizes its undulations, and cautiously shaking it, a cloud of dust arises from its folds, and obliges the unwary coxcomb to retire immediately for fear of suffocation.

For pity's sake, ladies, no longer, then, permit your dress to be a public calamity; diminish the volume of your graces, consider the narrow bounds of our public places, and the still more limited extent of the houses of our fashionables, compared with the space which you severally occupy; suffer us to approach you, and breathe the same atmosphere without injuring our health, no longer be inaccessible but at one side or the other, but, above all, consider the delicacy of our lungs; the goodness of your hearts convinces us that you will take some interest in our welfare, and endeavour to diminish the evils of which you are the cause.

To the EDITOR of LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE. SIR,

As your work is likely to become popular among the ladies, none can be better adapted as a vehicle to useful hints for their reformation, either in morals, manners, or customs. In this our day, the little regard paid by females of the middle ranks to habitual neatness of apparel, has irresistibly attracted the observation even of such a harmless, abstracted animal as myself; far enough removed (God knows!) from refined taste, but as anxious for the honor of my country. women in maintaining their national character

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pride whisper to the slovenly fashionable, that her choosing to copy scullions and dairy-maids in negligence of garb, justifies their folly and assurance in taking pattern of a pretty cap, or a well-made gown, belonging to their young

mistress.

In short, Sir, though it seems to me no disgrace for a tradesman's daughters to have lace of || less value, or fewer new bonnets than my Lady Charlotte, or my Lady Sophia, I see no reason why the gentlewoman and the house-wife should be for ever at variance.

Staines, May, 1806.

Yours, &c.

G. A. G.

MRS. SHERIDAN'S FETE.

A grand Fete, given by Mr. and Mrs. She

for cleanliness, simplicity, and elegance of dress, as the most skillful Abigail possibly can be for the superiority of her lady on a birth-night. Probably my remarks may be stigmatized as captious, impertinent, if not false; and while the wives and daughters of tradesmen have from generation to generation endeavoured to vie with the wives and daughters of the nobility in external appearance, it may be asserted (not without truth) that they never succeeded so well as at this present time; but should the young citizen or yeeman, struck with the dazzling display of his partner's person at a subscription dance, just call unexpectedly the next morning to enquire after healths, &c. and take a peep at these attractions by day-ligh, what might not be his surprise? Ten to one, if the fair object chance to be in the passage at his entrance, but he passes on to the parlour door, mistaking her for the cook or the housemaid; when, instead of theridan, on Monday, at their house in Somersetglossy braid and sparkling comb,' he might see the hair en papillotes, and a cap thrown on à la Cuisiniere, with unaffected negligence, instead of the thre yard train, a flounce in every part, of dingy hue, save where the quick-discarded apron spreads its protecting mantle; and altogether he would vainly seek the easy agreeable companion of the preceding evening, in the embarrassed air, and hurried aspect of the morning slattern. Now I would not have you suppose, Sir, by all this, that I consider it either possible, or politic, for a young woman occupied in household concerns to be always decked out as if in a ball-room; in fact, it is the only plea urged by this species of inattention, "that it is impossible to be precise and exact when one's busy" Grant me pardon for contradiction, but she may be tidy though immersed to the elbows in pastry, or seated at the ironing-board; which tidiness consists not so much in the quality or materials of dress, as in the methods of arranging it. I have no objection to curl-papers, because I think them best taken out after breakfast; nor to a morning cap, or an apron, because I prefer them clean and in their proper positions, but surely were it not better for city and country belles to attire themselves at once, for a domestic day, in the charming simplicity of a lively young quaker (sprinkling as much of the mode as convenient), to substract somewhat from their public éclat, and place it to their private account; especially when we reflect, that in bestowing no pains on themselves at home, they pay a most lamentable compliment to the small circle of their nearest connections; or if this be ineffectual, let a laudable

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place, was marked by peculiar elegance. It was intended as a house-warming, and likewise to celebrate the christening of the infant son of Mr. T. Sheridan, and the infant daughter of Mr. Scott, who is married to a sister of Mrs. Sheridan. The Prince of Wales and the Countess of Westmorcland were sponsors to Master Sheridan.Mr. Sheridan was the proxy for his Royal Highnss. The entrance-hall and the apartments were fitted up with great taste and magnificence. The former was converted into an elegant conservatory. The middle drawing room was ap propriated for his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales and his party; the third room was in a corresponding style of elegance, and led to a beautiful Turkish tent, which was erected in the grand gallery over the arch; here a table was laid for thirty-six for supper; and when the whole of this elegant suite of apartments was thrown open, it formed a most beautiful and elegant promenade. Two other rooms were set out for supper, and tables for 100 were also laid, after the ball, in the front drawing-rooms The grand library was appropriated for dancing; the floor was tastefully chalked with the Prince's plume in the centre, and an Etruscan border, with laurel branches at the angles.

The entertainment commenced about eleven, with a masque, by characters in appropriate dresses, representing aerial spirits, Venetian gondoliers, and a group of the witches in Macbeth. Dancing began abont one, and continued till a late hour. The Prince of Wales arrived about twelve. The Dukes of Cambridge and Somerset were also present.

London: Printed by and for J BELL, Southampton Street, Strand. June 1, 1806.

OR,

Well's

COURT AND FASHIONABLE

MAGAZINE,

FOR JUNE, 1806.

EMBELLISHMENTS.

1. An admirable Portrait Likeness of Her Royal Highness Princess Augusta, engraved by Scriven, after the Original Picture painted by Sir William Beechey.

2. Four whole length Portraits of Fashionable Walking, Opera, and Fuil Dresses, for July, 1806. 3. An Original Song, set to Music, expressly for this Work, by Mr. M. P. King.

4. Three different Original Patterns for Needle-Work.

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London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton Street, Strand. July 1, 1806.

On the First of August, with the next succeeding Number of this Magazine (being the SIXTH), will be published, a

SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER,

WHICH WILL COMPLETE THE FIRST

VOLUME.

IN order to render this Work as perfect as possible, it has been suggested to the Proprietors, that a REVIEW and CRITICAL ACCOUNT of the Literature of the day was necessary, as well from the want of a Work of this kind upon a principle of selection and elegance, as from the necessity of supplying the Subscribers of this Magazine with an Account of New Books, which they would otherwise have to seek in the common Reviews -The Proprietors, therefore, have been induced to offer to the Public a SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER, to be published Half Yearly, which will be delivered with every Six Numbers of the Magazine, and conclude the Volume to which it is attached. This SUPPLEMENT will contain a Review of Literature for the previous six months, and will proceed upon the plan which has been so deservedly popular in the Edinburgh Reviews.Its general principle will be the selection of such Books as, from their pretensions, the novelty of their subjects, and the reputation of their Authors, are most likely to interest the Public.-As the Works selected will be most conspicuous for Literature, so the method of the Review, it is trusted, will be equally conspicuous for its candour and impartiality.-The extracts from Books will be very sparing indeed, never more thin will be sufficient to give a general sample of their character and style, as the object of the Editors is to confine their Criticisms chiefly to ORIGINAL DISCUSSION, and to trespass as little as possible upon the ordinary functions of a Review.

As the SUPPLEMENT will always conclude the Volume to which it is appended, it will, of consequence contain a PREFACE and general INDEX to the previous Numbers; and the Decorative Parts will be of a character and quality far superior to what has hitherto appeared in any periodical Works, and which, when considered with a reference to the Ornaments of the other Numbers, will uniformly render the SUPPLEMENT more estimable than any of the preceding.

In the SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER, to be published with the Sixth Number, on the first of August next, will be given a FRONTISPIECE, characteristic of the Work, and a suitable appendage to the Volume-The most EMINENT ARTIST of the modern age, the man to whom the British School is chiefly indebted for the present renown and lustre of its character, has presented the Proprietors of this Work with a DESIGN for the FRONTISPIECE, which will be engraven in a stile of excellence correspondent with its merits.-The Subscribers are therefore requested to give early orders for this Number, as they will thus be enabled to ensure the best impressions.-A greater quantity of the Supplemental Number will be published than of any of the preceding, in order that the Public in general may be supplied, as well as the Subscribers.

N. B. The Subscribers will give orders for the SUPPLEMENT to be sent with their regular Number for August next, in order that they may complete their Volume immediately.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

AN influx of matter which we were obliged to admit, has laid us under the unpleasant necessity of postponing many favours which were destined for insertion in the present Number. Our Correspondents are requested to receive this apology, and not to imagine, because their communications are delayed, that they are therefore slighted and rejected.It is one of the difficulties of our situation frequently to be compelled to promise (upon good grounds indeed, and the fairest intentions,) what subsequent circumstances render it almost impossible to perform. We shall hasten, however, to redeem every pledge we have given, and, after this confession, we deprecate all asperity, and construction of neglect, upon the part of those FRIENDS whom our duty, inclination, and interest, equally lead us to oblige.

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