JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO INDIA. xxxi our officers concerning foreign seamen, to find that the American sailors bear a better character now with those of our own country than I had understood, or than they really used to do. They are not so grievously addicted to lying as they were once said to be. They have less animosity against the English than formerly, and their character seems to have recovered its natural English tone. One of the officers spoke well of their conduct even during the late war. A Company's ship, he said, on board which he was serving, had a number of American prisoners to take home, who, for the additional allowance of provisions usual on such occasions, undertook to assist in navigating the ship. In this situation they behaved extremely well, and, at length, when a vessel, supposed to be an American, hove in sight, and an action was expected, they came forward in a body to desire to be sent below, being equally resolved neither to fight against their country, nor to break their faith with their captors. All the officers agreed in speaking very ill of the French, and of their conduct towards their prisoners. This last they described as being, in the highest degree, brutal and ungenerous. They said, too, that it was the fault of the private seamen more than of the officers. The latter would often have been kinder, had it lain in their power, to the English than they usually were; but they could not prevent their men from insulting and abusing them, pilfering their provisions and water, spitting and pouring filth on them through the gratings, and, whenever an opportunity offered, beat xxxii JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO INDIA. ing and throwing things at them. An Englishman on board a French ship, they said, was always halfstarved, and abominably treated, and they spoke of the national temper, as shewn in their seamen, as utterly unkind, unchristian, and unmanly. This is a sad picture, but they who gave it me were neither interested in speaking untruly, nor, that I could perceive, inclined to judge harshly of others. How far the character of the uneducated French in general may have suffered under the influence of the Revolution and its consequences, or what circumstances may operate to depress the character of their seamen below the rest of the nation, my informants had not the means of judging. July 20.-To-day, notwithstanding some threatening appearances in the morning, we had our usual prayers and sermon. During the former I found that sea-knees were necessary, as well as sea-legs, since the vessel was so much on one side, that, while kneeling on a chair, (which I was obliged to do rather than on the deck, in order that my congregation might hear me,) I had some difficulty in keeping either myself or my support from going to leeward. The afternoon and evening were pleasant, but though the congregation at Church was very good, there were many absentees at dinner. Two large brown birds, which the sailors said were "boobies," flew some time round the ship this evening. I began to-day translating St. John's Gospel into Hindoostanee. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO INDIA xxxiii July 22.-The day was pleasant and the night beautiful, just such an one as a poet or a painter would wish to describe or represent at sea. I was pleased, while looking over Gilchrist's guide, with a little Ode by Koodrut, of which the following is an imitation. Ambition's voice was in my ear, she whisper'd yesterday, "How goodly is the land of Room, how wide the Russian sway ! The last two lines are not in the original, which I thought, though perhaps I was wrong, ended too abruptly without some such moral. My little Emily will probably know, before she reads the above, that "Room" is the Oriental name for the Turkish empire,-that" Secunder" is Alexander the Great, -and that the founder of the Median throne is Ky-kaoos, or Deioces. July 25.-To-day the first or introductory part of the ceremony usual on passing the line, took place. Soon after dark Neptune's boat was supposed to approach the ship, of which notice was given, in the regular form, to the officer on watch. b VOL. I. xxxiv JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO INDIA. A sailor from the fore-chains, in a dismal voice aggravated by a speaking-trumpet, hailed Captain Manning as if from the sea, and after a short conversation carried on with becoming gravity, Neptune was supposed to take his leave, and a barrel, with a lighted candle in it, was sent off from the fore-chains to represent his boat dropping astern. I was much struck by the time during which this continued visible at intervals, rising and sinking on the swell, till it was, at least, two miles distant, and I grew tired of watching it. Our latitude was this day 2° 10' N. Several large birds were seen, which we were told were " tropic birds." July 26.-To-day we passed the line, and the greater part of it was spent in the mummeries usual on such occasions, which went off very well and in good-humour. The passengers were not liable to the usual interrogatories and shaving, but the male part of them took their share in the splashing and wetting, which made up the main fun of these naval saturnalia. I was a good deal surprised at the contrivance exhibited by the masqueraders, in dressing out (with help of a little oakum and paint, a few fish-skins and decayed finery) the various characters of Neptune, Amphitrite, Mercury, Triton, &c. with far more attention to classical costume than I expected. With the distance and usual aids of a theatre, the show would not have been contemptible, while there was, as might be supposed, a sufficient mixture of the ludicrous to suit the purposes of fun and caricature. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO INDIA. XXXV July 27.—We had again prayers and a sermon. July 28.-Our progress continued rapid and our course favourable. The latitude to-day was 4° 40' S. The night was very beautiful; and from our situation on the globe, we had the opportunity of seeing many of the most considerable constellations of both hemispheres. Those of the northern heaven fall far short of the other in number and brilliancy; even the cross, for which I had looked with much earnestness of expectation, and in which I had long taken a sort of romantic interest, is neither extensive nor conspicuous except from the comparative paucity of its neighbours. The Great Bear still (though on the verge, instead of being at the summit of the sky) retains its splendid pre-eminence over the whole host of heaven. The Pole Star has disappeared. The Magellanic clouds are not yet visible. We have now been six weeks on board. How little did I dream, at this time last year, that I should ever be in my present situation! How strange it now seems to recollect the interest which I used to take in all which related to Southern seas, and distant regions, to India and its oceans, to Australasia and Polynesia. I used to fancy I should like to visit them, but that I ever should be able to do so, never occurred to me. Now that I shall see many of these countries, if life is spared to me, seems not improbable, God grant that my conduct in the scenes to which he has appointed me, may |