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required a daily sacrifice. Then he gave up that forest for the use of the deer, and so it was called "the forest given to the deer," and hence its name the "deer-plain" (or, wild).

The story of Buddha being the king of the deer represents the spirit of gentleness and love which ran like a golden web through the teaching of the Master "who was so kind." Buddha died in the fifth century. When life was fast ebbing away he said to his disciples weeping around him: "Behold, brethren, I exhort you, saying, transitory are all component things: toil without ceasing." And these were the last words of Buddha. Though dead he yet speaketh. "Better than going to heaven, better than lordship over all the world is the reward of entering the stream of holiness." Great is the contrast between Benares with its shrines dedicated to gods endowed with human lusts and passions, and the ruined mound at Sárnath around which lingers the memory of a pure and noble life, and the echo of sweet and earnest words.

XII

THR

CALCUTTA

HREE days after leaving Madras, about dusk, we came to a low bank running into the sea--such a place as that to which the wounded Arthur was borne in his rent armour.

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A dark strait of barren land:

On one side lay the ocean, and on one
Lay a great water, and the moon was full."

We anchored for the night off the Sunderbunds-those dreary swamps where malaria and tigers reign supreme. Lord Valentia, who visited India at the beginning of last century, wrote:

"To these Sunderbunds the Hindoos resort at this season in immense numbers to perform their ablutions in the Ganges, and many to sacrifice themselves to the alligators, which they effect by walking into the river and waiting till the ferocious animals approach and draw them under; others perish by the tigers every season, yet the powerful influence of superstition still draws them to the spot."

The next morning we resume our voyage. The low shore stretches before us, steaming and glistening in the rising sun; and the vast inland sea, covered with native boats whose broad brown sails are filling with light and breeze as they swiftly skim over the waters. The river narrows as we go steaming up it, guided and directed along our tortuous and difficult course by the experienced hand and eye of one of the famous Hooghly pilots. It was in the year

1675 that the Worshipful East India Company wrote to Fort St. George, at Madras, as follows:

"We enorder you to write effectually to your Chief and Councell at the Bay to provide careful young men of about twenty years of age, out of any of the ships in the Companies' Service, with the concent of the comandants, to be trained up as pylotts, but not to be imployed as writers, or on any other marcantile affairs, that thereby the Companies' shipping may with safety be carryed up the River Ganges, and send news yearly what you doe therein, and an account of their proficiency and their journalls."

In considerable respect was the Hooghly pilot held, for it was ordered that he "should rank next to our covenanted servants."

Much interest is excited on board as we approach the famous shoal, “James and Mary," so dreaded by mariners in days of old. A good deal of literary and philological ingenuity has been spent in accounting for the name, and many subtle derivations have lost their value by Sir George Birdwood discovering a few years ago, among the ancient records of the India Office, the following entry:

"The Royal James and Mary (James II. and Mary of Modena) arrived in Balasore Roads, from the West Coast, in August, with a cargo of red wood, candy, and pepper, which she had taken up in Madras. Coming up the river Hooghly on September 24, 1692, she fell on a bank on this side Tumbolie Point, and was unfortunately lost, being immediately overset and broke her back, with the loss of four or five men's lives." "This shipwreck "-writes Sir George Birdwood-" of The Royal James and Mary is the origin of the name which, I believe, is still a puzzle to some in Calcutta, of the James and Mary Sands.”

After leaving the "James and Mary "we steer close to the shore, and pass the fortification of Fulta. A little more than a century ago, when the French fleet was hourly expected at Calcutta, orders were given that at Fulta the chain should every evening be laid across the river-a delightfully

primitive state of existence. In the present day large sums of money have to be spent on batteries, heavy guns, and torpedoes, and when the fortifications have been completed, military experts of a new school arise and prove that the whole plan of defence is worthless. It was on December 15, 1756, that Clive arrived at Fulta from Madras, and found Drake and his fellow-fugitives in the ships on board which they had taken refuge when Suraja Dowla besieged and took Fort William.

After leaving Fulta the river again broadens till we come to a broad expanse of water, with some large vessels anchored by the river's bank. This is Budge-Budge, or Buz-Buzia, as it was called in the old days. Those who have studied Orme's great History-the favourite work of that good and brave soldier, Colonel Newcombe-will remember how the English force was surprised at night at Buz-Buzia, and how it was saved from destruction by the gallantry and presence of mind of Clive.

As we advance up the river we find huge mills erected on the river banks-witnesses of the growing prosperity of Calcutta, and we pass some of the stately mansions at Garden Reach, which used, in bygone times, before they were shorn of their splendour, to surprise and delight the eye of the stranger, as he approached the "City of Palaces." When these country seats were first erected it is difficult to decide. Mrs. Fay, whose letters throw much light on Calcutta in the olden days, writes (May 22, 1780) as follows:

'As you enter Garden Reach, which extends about nine miles below the town, the most interesting views that can possibly be imagined greet the eye. The banks of the river are, as one may say, absolutely studded with elegant mansions, called here, as at Madras, 'garden-houses.' These houses are surrounded by groves and lawns, which descend to the water's edge, and present a constant succession of whatever can delight the eye, or bespeak wealth and elegance in the owners. The noble

appearance of the river also, which is much wider than the Thames at London Bridge, together with the amazing variety of vessels continually passing along its surface, add to the beauty of the scene."

When the ex-Nawab of Oude was allowed to settle at Garden Reach, the wealthy owners deserted their noble mansions, and Garden Reach ceased to be a fashionable suburb. The fantastic palace, which that monarch erected on the river side, is fast being pulled down by the syndicate which purchased it, and the land is to be let as sites for mills. Opposite the King of Oude's palace is that lovely park of lawns and walks and noble trees-the Botanical Gardens of Calcutta. A century ago they were founded by Colonel Alexander Kyd, for "the collection of plants indigenous to the country, and for the introduction and acclimatisation of plants from foreign parts." The object of the founder has been fully realized. Trees of the rarest kinds, from Nepal and the Cape, Brazil and Penang, Java and Sumatra, are gathered together in that spot. The mahogany towers there, and the Cuba palms form an avenue like the aisle of some lofty cathedral. Noble mango trees and tamarinds are dotted about the grassy lawns; and there are stately casuarinas around whose stems are trained climbing plants. There are plantains of vast size and beauty from the Malay Archipelago, and giant creepers from South America. The crimson hibiscus and scarlet passion-flower dazzle the eye, and the odour of the champak and innumerable jessamines float upon the breeze. As Bishop Heber remarked, "The Botanic Gardens would perfectly answer to Milton's idea of Paradise, if they were on a hill instead of a dead flat."

North of the gardens lies Bishop's College, and its smooth green lawns and Gothic buildings recall to mind bright days spent on the banks of the Cam. The college was founded by Bishop Middleton, the first of the Metropolitans of India

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