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As the General's barge slowly came to the Admiralty wharf, there in waiting were the princes, ministers, and the high officials of the empire of Japan. As the General stepped out of the boat the Japanese band played the American national air, and Mr. Iwakura, Second Prime Minister, advanced and shook hands with him. General Grant had known Mr. Iwakura in America, when he visited our country at the head of the Japanese embassy. The greeting, therefore, was that of
old friends. There were also Ito, Inomoto, and Tereshima, also members of the Cabinet, two princes of the imperial family, and a retinue of officials. Mr. Yoshida presented the General and party to the Japanese, and a few moments were spent in conversation. Day fireworks were set off at the moment of the landing-representations of the American and Japanese flags entwined.
That, however, is the legend that greets you at every door-sill—the two flags entwined. The General and party, accompanied by the ministers and officials and the naval officers, drove to the railway station. There was a special train
in waiting, and at a quarter past one the party started for Tokio.
Our ride to Tokio was a little less than an hour, over a smooth road, and through a pleasant, well-cultivated, and apparently prosperous country. Our train being special made no stoppage; but I observed as we passed the stations that they were clean and neat, and that the people had assembled to wave flags and bow as we whirled past. About two o'clock our train entered the station at Tokio. A large crowd was in waiting, mainly the merchants and principal citizens. As the General descended from the train a committee of the citizens advanced and asked to read an address. At the close of the address General Grant was led to the private carriage of the Emperor. Among those who greeted him was his Excellency J. Pope Hennessy, British Governor of Hong-Kong, who said that he came as a British subject, to be among those who welcomed General Grant to Japan.
The General's carriage drove slowly, surrounded by cavalry, through lines of infantry presenting arms, through a dense mass of people, under an arch of flowers and evergreens, until, amid the flourish of trumpets and the beating of drums, he descended at the house that had been prepared for his reception —the Emperor's summer palace of Enriokwan. The Japanese, with almost a French refinement of courtesy, were anxious that General Grant should not have any special honors paid to him in Japan until he had seen the Emperor. They were also desirous that the meeting with the Emperor should take place on the Fourth of July. Their imaginations had been impressed with the poetry of the idea of the reception of one who had been the head of the American nation on the anniversary of American Independence. Accordingly it was arranged that at two o'clock on the afternoon of the Fourth of July the audience with the Emperor should take place. The day was very warm, although in our palace on the sea we had whatever breeze might have been wandering over the Pacific. General Grant invited some of his naval friends to accompany him, and in answer to this invitation we had Rear Admiral Patterson, A space was in
attended by Pay Inspector Thornton and Lieutenant Davenport of his staff ; Captain Benham commanding the “ Richmond ;" Captain Fitzhugh, commanding the “ Monongahela ;” Commander Johnson, commanding the “Ashuelot;" Lieutenant Springer, and Lieutenant Kellogg. At half-past one Mr. Bingham, our Minister, arrived, and our party immediately drove to the palace. The home of the Emperor was a long distance from the home of the General. The old palace was destroyed by fire, and Japan has had so many things to do that she has not built a new one. The road to the palace was through the section of Tokio where the old daimios lived when they ruled Japan as feudal lords, and made their occasional visits to the capital. There seems to have been a good deal of Highland freedom in the manners of the old princes. Their town-houses were really fortifications. closed with walls, and against these walls chambers were built -rude chambers, like winter quarters for an army. In these winter quarters lived the retainers, the swordsmen and soldiers. In the center of the inclosure was the home of the lord himself, who lived in the midst of his people, like a general in camp, anxious to fight somebody, and disappointed if he returned to his home without a fight. A lord with hot-tempered followers, who had come from the restraints and amenities of home to have a good time at the capital and give the boys a chance to distinguish themselves and see the world, would not be a welcome neighbor. And as there were a great many such lords, and each had his army and his town fortress, the daimio quarter became an important part of the capital. Some of the houses were more imposing than the palace—notably the house of the Prince of Satsuma. There was an imposing gate, elaborately buttressed and strengthened, that looked quite Gothic in its rude splendor. These daimio houses have been taken by the government for schools, for public offices, for various useful purposes. The daimios no longer come with armies and build camps and terrorize over their neighbors and rivals.
We drove through the daimios' quarter and through the gates of the city. The first impression of Tokio is that it is a
IMPRESSIONS OF TOKIO.
city of walls and canals. The walls are crude and solid, protected by moats. In the days of pikemen and sword-bearers there could not have been a more effective defense. Even now it would require an effort for even a German army to enter through these walls. They go back many generations;
I do not know how many. In these lands nothing is worth recording that is not a thousand years old, and my impression is that the walls of Tokio have grown up with the growth of the city, the necessities of defense, and the knowledge of the people in attack and defense. We passed under the walls of an inclosure which was called the castle. Here we are told the Emperor will build his new palace. We crossed another bridge—I think there were a dozen altogether in the course of the drive-and came to a modest arched gateway, which did not look nearly as imposing as the entrance to the palace formerly occupied by the great Prince Satsuma. Soldiers were drawn up, and the band played “ Hail Columbia.” Our carriages drove on past one or two modest buildings and drew up in front of another modest building, on the steps of which the Minister Iwakura was standing. The General and party descended, and were cordially welcomed and escorted up a narrow stairway into an anteroom. When you have seen most of the available palaces in the world, from the glorious home of Aurungzebe to the depressing, mighty cloister of the Escurial, you are sure to have preconceived notions of what a palace should be, and to expect something unique and grand in the home of the long-hidden and sacred Majesty of Japan. The home of the Emperor was as simple as that of a country gentleman at home. We have many country gentlemen with felicitous investments in petroleum and silver who would disdain the home of a prince who claims direct descent from heaven, and whose line extends far beyond the Christian era. What marked the house was its simplicity and taste; qualities for which my palace education had not prepared me.
You look for splendor, for the grand—at least the grandiose—for some royal whim like the holy palace near the Escurial, which cost millions, or like Versailles, whose cost is among the eternal mysteries. Here we are in a suite of plain rooms, the ceilings of wood, the walls decorated with natural scenery—the furniture sufficient but not crowded—and exquisite in style and finish. There is no pretense of architectural emotion. The rooms are large, airy, with a sense of summer about them which grows stronger as you look out of the window and down the avenues of trees. We are told that the grounds are spacious and fine, even for Japan, and that his Majesty, who rarely goes outside of his palace grounds, takes what recreation he needs within the walls.
The palace is a low building, one story in height. They do not build high walls in Japan, especially in Tokio, on ac