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Japanese costumes. The houses were tidy, and the stores teemed with articles for sale. We saw no beggary, no misery, no poverty, only a bright contented people who loved the sunshine. We drove on, up one street and down another, a roundabout way, I am sure, so that we should see the town and the

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in these Eastern nations, and especially in Japan, that places of worship and of recreation are together, so that the faithful may perform their devotions and have a good time. Here we sat and took tea. The carving on the temple was two centuries old, but looked fresh and new. The floors were covered with clean white matting, and the screens were decorated with birds of gay plumage. While the tea was served there was music, and after the music bonbons. Priests in white and brown

AN OLD JAPANESE TOWN.

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flowing garments, active young men not apparently suffering from an ascetic life, came and bowed to the General. Day fireworks were set off a curious contrivance in pyrotechny which makes a cloud in the sky and shoots out fans and ribbons and trinkets. One of these fans took fire, and while burning lodged on the wood-work of the temple, and for a moment it seemed as if we were to have an additional and unexpected pageant. But the priests and policemen scrambled up the carved pillars and put out the fire. At the doors of the temple were offerings of white flowers.

The presence of the General in the town was made the occasion for a fête-day, and the people enjoyed the fireworks and the music. Then we were taken to breakfast, a Japanese breakfast of multitudinous and curious dishes, and after breakfast we rode home. We passed on our way the walls surrounding the home of the dethroned Tycoon. That oncedreaded monarch is now a pensioner, and lives a life of seclusion and study. The drive back was picturesque and pleasant, in all respects most interesting as our first unruffled glimpse of Japan. The roads were smooth, the streams were covered with round stone bridges, and there were brooks with clear running water. We stopped at a tea-house to allow our jinrickshaw men to cool themselves and drink, and saw heaps of the green tea-leaves ready to be cured. On our return to the village we found the whole town waiting for us, and as we rolled down to the beach, the people came flying and tramping after. During the night we kept on in a slow, easy pace, and in the morning at ten we saw the hills of Yokohama, and heard the guns of the "Monongahela "-Admiral Patterson's flagship-thunder out their welcome to General Grant.

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ENERAL GRANT'S landing in Yokohama, which took place on the 3d of July, as a mere pageant, was in itself a glorious sight. Yokohama has a beautiful harbor, and the lines of the city can be traced along the green background. The day was clear and warm-a home July day tempered with ocean winds. There were men-of-war of various nations in the harbor, and as the exact hour of the General's coming was known, everybody was on the lookout. At ten o'clock our Japanese convoy passed ahead and entered the harbor. At half-past ten the "Richmond" steamed slowly in, followed by the "Ashuelot." As soon as the "Monongahela" made out our flag, and especially the flag at the fore, which denoted the General's presence, her

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