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AN OLD JAPANESE TOWN.
fowing garments, active young men not apparently suffering from an ascetic life, came and bowed to the General. Day fireworks were set off—a curious contrivance in pyrotechny which makes a cloud in the sky and shoots out fans and ribbons and trinkets. One of these fans took fire, and while burning lodged on the wood-work of the temple, and for a moment it seemed as if we were to have an additional and unexpected pageant. But the priests and policemen scrambled up the carved pillars and put out the fire. At the doors of the temple were offerings of white flowers.
The presence of the General in the town was made the occasion for a fête-day, and the people enjoyed the fireworks and the music. Then we were taken to breakfast, a Japanese breakfast of multitudinous and curious dishes, and after breakfast we rode home. We passed on our way the walls surrounding the home of the dethroned Tycoon.
That oncedreaded monarch is now a pensioner, and lives a life of seclusion and study. The drive back was picturesque and pleasant, in all respects most interesting as our first unruffled glimpse of Japan. The roads were smooth, the streams were covered with round stone bridges, and there were brooks with clear running water. We stopped at a tea-house to allow our jinrickshaw men to cool themselves and drink, and saw heaps of the green tea-leaves ready to be cured. On our return to the village we found the whole town waiting for us, and as we rolled down to the beach, the people came flying and tramping after. During the night we kept on in a slow, easy pace, and in the morning at ten we saw the hills of Yokohama, and heard the guns of the “Monongahela”—Admiral Patterson's flagship-thunder out their welcome to General Grant.
ENERAL GRANT'S landing in Yokohama, which
took place on the 3d of July, as a mere pageant, was in itself a glorious sight. Yokohama has a
beautiful harbor, and the lines of the city can be traced along the green background. The day was clear and warm—a home July day tempered with ocean winds. There were men-of-war of various nations in the harbor, and as the exact hour of the General's coming was known, everybody was on the lookout. At ten o'clock our Japanese convoy passed ahead and entered the harbor. At half-past ten the “Richmond” steamed slowly in, followed by the “ Ashuelot.” As soon as the “ Monongahela” made out our flag, and especially the flag at the fore, which denoted the General's presence, her
LANDING AT YOKOHAMA.
guns rolled out a salute. For a half hour the bay rang with the roar of cannon and was clouded with smoke. The "Richmond” fired a salute to the flag of Japan. The Japanese and the French and Russian vessels fired gun after gun. Then came official visits-Admiral Patterson and staff, the admirals and commanding officers of other fleets, Consul-general Van Buren, and officers of the Japanese navy, blazing in uniform. The officers of the “Richmond” were all in full uniform, and for an hour the deck of the flag-ship was a blaze of color and decoration. General Grant received the various dignitaries on the deck as they arrived. It was arranged that General Grant's landing was to take place precisely at noon. The foreign residents were anxious that the ceremony should be on what is called the foreign concession, but the Japanese authorities preferred that it should be on their own territory. At noon the imperial barge and the steam launch came alongside the “ Richmond.” General Grant, accompanied by Mrs. Grant, his son, Prince Dati, Judge Bingham, Mr. Yoshida, and the naval officers specially detailed to accompany him, passed over the side and went on the barge. As soon as General Grant entered the barge, the “Richmond ” manned yards and fired a salute. In an instant, as if by magic, the Japanese, the French, and the Russians manned yards and fired salutes. The German ship hoisted the imperial standard, and the English vessel dressed ship. Amid the roar of cannon and the waving of flags the General's boat slowly moved to the shore. As he passed each of the saluting ships the General took off his hat and bowed, while the guards presented arms and the bands played the American national air. The scene was wonderfully grandthe roar of the cannon, the clouds of smoke wandering off over the waters; the stately, noble vessels streaming with flags; the yards manned with seamen ; the guards on deck; the officers in full uniform gathered on the quarter-deck to salute the General as he passed ; the music and the cheers which came from the Japanese and the merchant ships; the crowds that clustered on the wharves; the city; and over all a clear, mild, July day, with grateful breezes ruffling the sea.