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367 the barge of the “ Ashuelot” was manned, and the General and his party embarking, slowly pulled toward the shore, while the guns

of the American man-of-war fired another salute. In a few minutes we reached the landing, which was covered with scarlet cloth. Mr. Little, Chairman of the Municipal Council, received the General and escorted him into the building, the audience rising and cheering. The Chinese Governor, accompanied by a retinue of mandarins, was present. The band played “ Hail Columbia,” and when the music and the cheering ceased, Mr. Little read the address welcoming General Grant to Shanghai on behalf of the foreign community. The General, speaking in a conversational tone, said:

"LADIES AND GENTLEMEN: I am very much obliged to you for the hearty welcome which you have paid me, and I must say that I have been a little surprised, and agreeably surprised. I have now been a short time in the country of which Shanghai sorms so important a part in a commercial way, and I have seen much to interest me and much to instruct me. I wish I had known ten years ago what I have lately learned. I hope to carry back to my country a report of all I have seen in this part of the world, for it will be of interest and possibly of great use. I thank you again for the hearty welcome you have given me.”

At the close of the speech the General was escorted to his carriage. There was a guard of honor composed of sailors and marines from the American and French men-of-war, and a company of volunteer rifles. Horses are not plentiful in Shanghai, and General Grant's carriage was drawn by a pair of Australian horses, which, not having had a military experience, grew so impatient with the guns, the music, and the cheering that they became unmanageable, and the procession came to a halt. Lieutenant Cowles of the “Monocacy,” who was in command of the escort, suggested a remedy. The horses were taken out, and the volunteer guard, taking hold of the carriage, drew it along the embankment to the Consulate, a distance of more than a mile. On arriving at the Consulate the General reviewed the escort. The evening was spent quietly, the General dining with Mr. Bailey and a few of the leading citizens of the settlement. On Sunday General Grant attended service in the cathedral. On Monday morning he visited a dairy farm and afterward made a few calls. In the evening he dined with Mr. Little, and after dinner went to the house of Mr. Cameron, the manager of the Hong-Kong and Shanghai Bank, to witness the torchlight procession and the illumination. The whole town had been agog all day preparing for the illumination, and as we strolled along the parade every house was in the hands of workmen and Chinese artists. There was a threat of bad weather, but as the sun went down the ominous winds went with it, and the evening was perfect for all the purposes of the

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display. The two occasions when Shanghai had exerted herself to welcome and honor a guest, were on the visits of the Duke of Edinburgh and the Grand Duke Alexis. The display in honor of General Grant far surpassed these, and what made it so agreeable was the heartiness with which English, Americans, French, Germans, and Chinese all united. I had heard a good deal during the day of what Shanghai would do. But with the memory of many fêtes in many lands, fresh from the stupendous demonstration in Canton, I felt skeptical as to what a little European colony clinging to the fringe of the Chinese empire could really do in the way of a display. The dinner


369 at Mr. Little's was over at half-past nine, and in company with Mr. Little and the General I drove along the whole river front. The scene as we drove out into the open street was bewildering in its beauty. Wherever you looked was a blaze of light and fire, of rockets careering in the air, of Roman lights and every variety of fire. The ships in the harbor were a blaze of color, and looked as if they were pieces of fireworks. The lines of the masts, the rigging, and the hulls were traced in flames. The “ Monocacy” was very beautiful, every line from the bow to the topmast and anchor chain hung with Japanese lanterns. This graceful, blending mass of color thrown upon the black evening sky was majestic, and gave you an idea of a beauty in fire hitherto unknown to us. “Never before,” says the morning journal—for I prefer to take other authority than my own in recording this dazzling scene—“never before has there been such a blaze of gas and candles seen in Shanghai.” The trees in full foliage gave a richer hue to the scenes, and they seemed, under the softening influence of the night and the fire, to be a part of the fireworks. On the front of the club house was a ten-foot star in gas jets with the word “Welcome."

Welcome.” There was the United States coat-of-arms, with the initials “ U. S. G.” flanked with the words “ Soldier ” and “Statesman.” Russell & Co. had a ten-foot star, “Welcome to Grant," and in addition there were two thousand Chinese lanterns crossing the whole building. At the Central Hotel was a six-foot St. George's star, with “U. S. G.” At the French a St. George's star, with a sunburst on either side. The American Consulate was covered with lanterns arranged to form sentences : “Washington, Lincoln, Grant—three immortal Americans ; “Grant will win on this line if it takes all summer; ” “The fame of Grant encircles the world; ” “Grant-of the people, with the people, for the people.” There was also a mammoth device in gas jets, fifty feet high, “Welcome, Grant—soldier, hero, statesman.” The Japanese Consulate and the offices of the shipping company were covered with lanterns—four thousandarranged in the most effective manner. The Astor House had this quotation from the General's speech in Hong-Kong, “ The

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perpetual alliance of the two great English-speaking nations of the world.” The English Consulate had a multitude of lanterns and the word “Welcome” in a blazing gas jet. The Masonic Hall was a mass of light. At ten the General returned to the house of Mr. Cameron, and from there reviewed the firemen's procession. Each engine was preceded by a band, which played American airs; and it gave one a feeling of homesickness, and recalled the great days of trial and sacrifice, to hear the strains of “ John Brown” and “Sherman's March through Georgia.” After the procession passed and repassed there was a reception in Mr. Cameron's house.

On the 20th of May General Grant dined with Mr. Purden, a dinner which had a sad interest to us all, because it was given as a farewell to our dear and honored companion Mr. Borie. Mr. Borie's health had been such that, acting under the best advice, he was resolved to leave General Grant, and, taking the steamer for Japan, to sail direct for home. At the close of the dinner General Grant proposed Mr. Borie's health in a brief and affectionate speech, saying how much pleasure he had received from Mr. Borie's society, how long he had known and honored him, and asking the ladies and gentlemen present to unite in wishing him a pleasant voyage home, and long life and happiness. The next morning Mr. Borie sailed on the Japanese steamer, accompanied by Dr. Keating There were other fêtes in Shanghai, “sing song " at the Chinese theater, a dinner with Mr. Wetmore, and a ball at the club. On the 12th, Chief Justice French gave a breakfast, and in the afternoon there was a garden party in the beautiful grounds of Mr. Forbes. There was some discussion as to whether we should go up the river to visit Hang-kow, but Mr. Holcombe was impatient for us to reach Pekin ; and so, after debate, and not without reluctance, it was resolved to steam direct for Tientsin, and the north. On the morning of the 24th of May, amid heavy rains and high seas—the first really bad weather we had since leaving Marseilles—we continued our journey.

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T Tientsin we met the famous Viceroy, Li Hung

Chang, the most eminent man in China, whom some admirers call the Bismarck of the East. Li

Hung Chang, because of his services as commander of the army that suppressed the Taeping rebellion, has been advanced to the highest positions in the empire. He is a nobleman of the rank of earl, Grand Secretary of State, guardian of the heir apparent, head of the War Office and of the Chinese armies, director of the coast defenses. He is in command of the province which guards the road to Pekin, the most honorable viceroyalty in the empire. It shows the genius of the man that he, a Chinaman, should receive such honors from a Tartar dynasty, and even be the guardian of a Tartar emperor. It shows the wisdom and conciliatory spirit of the dynasty that

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