fail to give you an idea of the vast, far-extending, patient, and silent multitude. It was Saturday afternoon, the holiday, and consequently every one could come, and every one did, in holiday attire. One of the committee said to me, as we stood on the deck of the "Ashuelot" looking out upon the wonderful panorama of life and movement, that he supposed that every man, woman, and child in Shanghai who could come was on the river bank. The landing was in the French concession. A large "go down," or storehouse, had been decorated with flags, flowers, and greenery. This building was large enough to hold all the foreign residents in Shanghai, and long before the hour of landing every seat was occupied. At three o'clock ARRIVAL AT SHANGHAI. 367 the barge of the "Ashuelot" was manned, and the General and his party embarking, slowly pulled toward the shore, while the guns of the American man-of-war fired another salute. In a few minutes we reached the landing, which was covered with scarlet cloth. Mr. Little, Chairman of the Municipal Council, received the General and escorted him into the building, the audience rising and cheering. The Chinese Governor, accompanied by a retinue of mandarins, was present. The band played "Hail Columbia," and when the music and the cheering ceased, Mr. Little read the address welcoming General Grant to Shanghai on behalf of the foreign community. The General, speaking in a conversational tone, said: "LADIES AND GENTLEMEN: I am very much obliged to you for the hearty welcome which you have paid me, and I must say that I have been a little surprised, and agreeably surprised. I have now been a short time in the country of which Shanghai forms so important a part in a commercial way, and I have seen much to interest me and much to instruct me. I wish I had known ten years ago what I have lately learned. I hope to carry back to my country a report of all I have seen in this part of the world, for it will be of interest and possibly of great use. I thank you again for the hearty welcome you have given me." At the close of the speech the General was escorted to his carriage. There was a guard of honor composed of sailors and marines from the American and French men-of-war, and a company of volunteer rifles. Horses are not plentiful in Shanghai, and General Grant's carriage was drawn by a pair of Australian horses, which, not having had a military experience, grew so impatient with the guns, the music, and the cheering that they became unmanageable, and the procession came to a halt. Lieutenant Cowles of the "Monocacy," who was in command of the escort, suggested a remedy. The horses were taken out, and the volunteer guard, taking hold of the carriage, drew it along the embankment to the Consulate, a distance of more than a mile. On arriving at the Consulate the General reviewed the escort. The evening was spent quietly, the General dining with Mr. Bailey and a few of the leading citizens of the settlement. in the cathedral. On Sunday General Grant attended service On Monday morning he visited a dairy farm and afterward made a few calls. In the evening he dined with Mr. Little, and after dinner went to the house of Mr. Cameron, the manager of the Hong-Kong and Shanghai Bank, to witness the torchlight procession and the illumination. The whole town had been agog all day preparing for the illumination, and as we strolled along the parade every house was in the hands of workmen and Chinese artists. There was a threat of bad weather, but as the sun went down the ominous winds went with it, and the evening was perfect for all the purposes of the display. The two occasions when Shanghai had exerted herself to welcome and honor a guest, were on the visits of the Duke of Edinburgh and the Grand Duke Alexis. The display in honor of General Grant far surpassed these, and what made it so agreeable was the heartiness with which English, Americans, French, Germans, and Chinese all united. I had heard a good deal during the day of what Shanghai would do. But with the memory of many fêtes in many lands, fresh from the stupendous demonstration in Canton, I felt skeptical as to what a little European colony clinging to the fringe of the Chinese empire could really do in the way of a display. The dinner at Mr. Little's was over at half-past nine, and in company with Mr. Little and the General I drove along the whole river front. The scene as we drove out into the open street was bewildering in its beauty. Wherever you looked was a blaze of light and fire, of rockets careering in the air, of Roman lights and every variety of fire. The ships in the harbor were a blaze of color, and looked as if they were pieces of fireworks. The lines of the masts, the rigging, and the hulls were traced in flames. The "Monocacy" was very beautiful, every line from the bow to the topmast and anchor chain hung with Japanese lanterns. This graceful, blending mass of color thrown upon the black evening sky was majestic, and gave you an idea of a beauty in fire hitherto unknown to us. "Never before," says the morning journal-for I prefer to take other authority than my own. in recording this dazzling scene-"never before has there been such a blaze of gas and candles seen in Shanghai." The trees in full foliage gave a richer hue to the scenes, and they seemed, under the softening influence of the night and the fire, to be a part of the fireworks. On the front of the club house was a ten-foot star in gas jets with the word "Welcome." There was the United States coat-of-arms, with the initials "U. S. G." Hanked with the words "Soldier" and "Statesman." Russell & Co. had a ten-foot star, "Welcome to Grant," and in addiion there were two thousand Chinese lanterns crossing the whole building. At the Central Hotel was a six-foot St. George's star, with "U. S. G." At the French a St. George's tar, with a sunburst on either side. The American Consulate was covered with lanterns arranged to form sentences: "Washngton, Lincoln, Grant-three immortal Americans; " "Grant vill win on this line if it takes all summer;" "The fame of Grant encircles the world; " "Grant-of the people, with the eople, for the people." There was also a mammoth device in as jets, fifty feet high, "Welcome, Grant-soldier, hero, statesan." The Japanese Consulate and the offices of the shiping company were covered with lanterns-four thousandrranged in the most effective manner. The Astor House had is quotation from the General's speech in Hong-Kong, "The perpetual alliance of the two great English-speaking nations of the world." The English Consulate had a multitude of lanterns and the word "Welcome" in a blazing gas jet. The Masonic At ten the General returned to Hall was a mass of light. the house of Mr. Cameron, and from there reviewed the firemen's procession. Each engine was preceded by a band, which played American airs; and it gave one a feeling of homesickness, and recalled the great days of trial and sacrifice, to hear the strains of "John Brown" and "Sherman's March through Georgia." After the procession passed and repassed there was a reception in Mr. Cameron's house. On the 20th of May General Grant dined with Mr. Purden, a dinner which had a sad interest to us all, because it was given as a farewell to our dear and honored companion Mr. Borie's health had been such that, acting Mr. Borie. under the best advice, he was resolved to leave General Grant, and, taking the steamer for Japan, to sail direct for home. At the close of the dinner General Grant proposed Mr. Borie's health in a brief and affectionate speech, saying how much pleasure he had received from Mr. Borie's society, how long he had known and honored him, and asking the ladies and gentlemen present to unite in wishing him a pleasant voyage home, and long life and happiness. The next morning Mr. Borie sailed on the Japanese steamer, accompanied There were other fêtes in Shanghai, "sing by Dr. Keating. at the Chinese theater, a dinner with Mr. Wetmore, and of the 24th of May, amid heavy rains and high seas-the first |