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a facile, sprightly race, fond of the sunshine, delighting to repeat the caprice of nature in the curious and quaint; the other has a deep, earnest purpose. This is an imagination which sees its gods in every form-in stones and trees and beasts and creeping things, in the stars above, in the snake wriggling through the hedges-the other sees only one God, even the Lord God Jehovah, who made the heavens and the earth, and will come to judge the world at the last day. As you wander through the courtyards and chambers of Amber the fancy is amused by the character of all that surrounds you. There is no luxury. All these kings wanted was air and sunshine. They slept on the floor. The chambers of their wives were little more than cells built in stone. Here are the walls that surrounded their section of the palace. There are no windows looking into the outer world, only a thick stone wall pierced with holes slanting upward, so that if a curious spouse looked out she would see nothing lower than the stars. Amber is an immense palace, and could quite accommodate a rajah with a court of a thousand attendants.

There were some beautiful views from the terrace, and we sat in the shade between the columns and looked into the valley beyond, over which the sun was streaming in midday splendor. We should have liked to remain, but our elephants had been down to the water to lap themselves about and were now returning refreshed to bear us back to Jeypore. We had only given ourselves a day for the town, and we had to return the call of the Prince, which is a serious task in Eastern etiquette. Mr. Borie was quite beaten down and used up by the sun and the wobbling, wearisome elephant ride; but we succeeded in persuading him to make the descent in a chair, as Mrs. Grant had done. There was something which did violence to Mr. Borie's republican spirit in the idea of being carried about in a chair when there were elephants to ride, and it was only upon pressure that we managed to mount him in his chair. While Mr. Borie and Mrs. Grant were off swinging and lolling down the hill, the rest of us took a short cut among the ruins, leaping from stone to stone, watching the ground care

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school of arts and industry which interested the General very much, his special subjects of inquiry as he travels being the stoms and the resources of the country. He would s to see a new-fashioned plow or to avoid seeing a gun. The school is one of the Prince's favorite d the scholars showed aptness in their work. The in which Jeypore excels is enameled jewelry, and e specimens shown us were exceedingly beautiful We went to the Mint, and saw the workmen beat d stamp it. We went to the collection of tigers,

and saw a half dozen brutes, each of whom had a history. Two or three were man-eaters. One enormous creature had killed twenty-five men before he was taken, and he lay in his cage quite comfortable and sleek. Another was in a high temper, and roared and jumped and beat the bars of his cage. He also was a man-eater, and I am sure that his manifestations quite cured us of any ambition to go into the jungle-cured all but the Colonel, whose coming campaigns in the tiger country are themes of occasional conversation. On returning to the residency we found a group of servants from the palace on the veranda, each carrying a tray laden with sweetmeats and nuts, oranges and other fruits. This was an offering from the Prince, and it was necessary that the General should touch some of the fruit and taste it, and say how much he was indebted to his Highness for the remembrance. Then the servants marched back to the palace. I don't think that any of us could have been induced to make a meal out of the royal viands, not for a considerable part of the kingdom; but our servants were hanging around with hungry eyes, and as soon as the General touched the fruit they swarmed over the trays and bore away the offerings. The Doctor looked at the capture from a professional point of view, and saw that he would have work ahead. The sure consequence of a present of sweetmeats from the palace is that the residency servants are ill for two or three days.

The Maharajah sent word that he would receive General Grant at five. The Maharajah is a pious prince, a devotee and almost an ascetic. He gives seven hours a day to devotions. He partakes only of one meal. When he is through with his prayers he plays billiards. He is the husband of ten wives. His tenth wife was married to him a few weeks ago. The court gossip is that he did not want another wife, that nine were enough; but in polygamous countries marriages are made to please families, to consolidate alliances, to win friendships, very often to give a home to the widows or sisters of friends. The Maharajah was under some duress of this kind, and his bride was brought home and is now with her sister brides behind the

THE MAHARAJAH.

31 stone walls, killing time as she best can, while her lord prays and plays billiards. I asked one who knows something of Oriental ways what these poor women do whom destiny elevates to the couch of a king. They live in more than cloistered seclusion. They are guarded by eunuchs, and, even when ailing, cannot look in the face of the physician, but put their hands through a screen. I heard it said in Jeypore that no face of a Rajput princess was ever seen by a European. These prejudices are respected and protected by the imperial government,

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which respects and protects every custom in India so long as the states behave themselves and pay tribute. In their seclusion the princesses adorn themselves, see the Nautch girls dance, and read romances. They are not much troubled by the Maharajah. That great prince, I hear, is tired of everything but his devotions and his billiards. He has no children, and is not supposed to have hopes of an heir. He will, as is the custom in these high families, adopt some prince of an auxiliary branch. If he fails to do so and somehow childless rajahs generally fail, never believing in the inevitable, and putting off the act of

adoption until it is too late-the British government will find one, just as they did in Baroda the other day, deposing one ruler and elevating a lad ten or eleven years of age, "who now," as I see in an official paper, "is receiving his education. under the supervision of an English tutor." The government of the kingdom is in the hands of a council, among whom are the prime minister and the principal Brahmin.

We drove to the palace at four o'clock, and were shown the royal stables. There were some fine horses and exhibitions of horsemanship which astonished even the General. We were shown the astronomical buildings of Jai Singh II., which were on a large scale and accurately graded. We climbed to the top of the palace and had a fine view of Jeypore. The palace itself embraces one-sixth of the city, and there are ten thousand people within its walls-beggars, soldiers, priests, politicians, all manner of human beings-who live on the royal bounty. The town looked picturesque and cool in the shadows of the descending sun. We looked at the quarters devoted to the household. All was dead. Every part of the palace swarmed with life except this. Word had been sent to the household that profane eyes would soon be gazing from the towers, and the ladies went into seclusion. We strolled from building to building-reception-rooms, working-rooms, billiard-rooms, high walled, far apart, with stone walls and gardens all around; space, air, and sunshine. His Highness had risen this morning earlier than usual, to have his prayers finished in time to meet the General. At five precisely we entered the courtyard leading to the reception hall. The Maharajah came slowly down the steps, with a serious, preoccupied air, not as an old man, but as one who was too weary with a day's labors to make any effort, and shook hands with the General and Mrs. Grant. He accompanied the General to a seat of honor and sat down at his side. We all ranged ourselves in the chairs. On the side of the General sat the members of his party; on the side of the Maharajah the members of his cabinet. Dr. Handley acted as interpreter. The prince said Jeypore was honored in seeing the face of the great American ruler, whose fame had

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