the trees nearly all perished. Now the cocoa-nut has taken its place, and, as it is a hardy plant and has abundance of sea air, there is no reason why it should not be prosperous. We drove to the foot of the mountain, where there was a small inn, and a swimming bath of water that came from the mountains. High granite cliffs were around us, and there were deep ravines torn by nature in some volcanic mood. Not long since one of these cliffs suddenly broke away and rolled into the valley. We saw the fragments, among which workmen were busy. Some Malays climbed the palm-trees and threw down cocoanuts that we might taste the milk. The Malay climbs the tree as expertly as a monkey, and went up and down the slender trunk as easily as though it had been a staircase. The milk was served in tumblers. It had an insipid, medicinal taste, which none of us seemed to relish. Here also grew the sensitiveplant in profusion, which withered and turned brown at the slightest touch. The point of a pin, or a glove, or a finger would shrivel up the largest plant. It was almost sad to see the green, modest, smiling plant surrender at the first small touch, and become a brown unsightly shrub. In the morning, however, it becomes green again, and unmasks its beauty to the sun.

Our day in Penang was pleasant, thanks to the hospitality of those who took us into their cheerful, luxurious homes. The General came down from the hill at four in the afternoon, and after the reception, and a drive about the town, which took about two hours, the whole party embarked on the “Simla." The population were on the wharf to see us off; the Governor, the authorities, troops in line, and a body of Chinese merchants. We had a quiet sail during the night, and the warmth of the sun, which made even sleeping on the deck uncomfortable, showed that we were coming near the equator. When the morning came we were approaching the town of Malacca. This famous town lies in north latitude 2° 14', and east longitude 102° 12'. The sea was a dead calm, and as the bay is shallow we came to anchor about three miles from shore. There was a British gun-boat at anchor, the "Kestrel," commanded by Commander

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Edwards of the Royal Navy. The commander came on board to pay his respects to the General. One of the officers was down with a fever, and among the blessings of our coming was some ice, of which we had a remnant. This was sent to the sick gentleman, and was so scarce that it was treasured as carefully as though it were gold. One of the hardships of travel in the tropics is the scant supply of ice. What you have is machine

made, and is of so poor a quality that it melts almost as soon as it touches the water. After breakfast our party went ashore in the boat of the "Kestrel," Commander Edwards acting as the General's escort. We climbed the hill, and strolled through the ruins of the old Portuguese cathedral and deciphered the names on the tombs. Then we drove around the town in closecovered carriages. There was nothing especially interesting. The inhabitants were Chinese and Malays; the Chinese having quietly assumed the business, and taken the lead of the natives, as indeed Chinamen are doing all through the archipelago. On our return to the wharf to re-embark we met the Governor,

THE TOWN OF MALACCA.

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He

Captain Shaw, who was coming in from his country-seat. did not know the General was coming; had only just learned of his arrival, and had not even had time, he said, to put on his uniform. The General thanked the captain, who is a fine specimen of a bluff, honest English naval officer. The General thanked the captain for his kind purposes, but could not wait longer in Malacca, being due next day in Singapore. The General and Captain Shaw sat under the covered landing on the edge of the wharf, and had a half-hour's talk about the town and the province. As the sun went down we slowly steamed over a calm sea toward Singapore, where we were to learn, as we did with sorrow, of the death of Captain Shaw, which took place a few days after our departure.

The fame of Malacca is great as the scene of the military triumphs of the illustrious Portuguese warrior and discoverer Alphonso Albuquerque. Cameons, in the Lusiad, has an apostrophe to Malacca, the conquest of which was one of the greatest achievements of Albuquerque.

"Nor eastward far though fair Malacca lie,
Her groves embosomed in the morning sky,
Though with her amorous sons the valiant line

Of Java's isle in battle rank combine;

Though poisoned shafts their ponderous quivers store,
Malacca's spicy groves and golden ore,

Great Albuquerque, thy dauntless toils shall crown."

Malacca is also renowned as the scene of the religious triumphs of that renowned apostle of the Indies, Saint Francis Xavier. It was in September, 1545, that Saint Francis landed in the sunny little town around which we wandered one warm April morning. In those days Malacca was to the world's commerce what Singapore aims to be now. Saint Francis had been in India, and had tried to convert the Brahmins. But that wily race of priests answered his persuasions by saying that it was only necessary for the eternal peace of man that he should give alms to the Brahmins and never kill a cow. When the apostle landed in Malacca he found Christians, Jews, Mohammedans, and infidels of every clime, and the Christians who