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treated the matter as an ordinary case of assault and battery ; held that the native would have died anyhow from the diseased spleen, and so allowed the matter to pass without punishment. The Viceroy interfered and put a heavy hand on the judges, and all official India arose in arms.

The idea of this young literary man, this poet, this sentimental diplomatist, coming from the salons of Paris and Lisbon to apply his poetic fancies to the stern duties of governing an empire in Indiasuch a thing had never been known. How different this man from those granite statesmen who blew Sepoys from cannon and hanged suspicious characters and saved the empire. If the right, the consecrated right of an Englishman to beat a " nigger” is destroyed, then there is no longer an India. I cannot exaggerate the feeling which this incident caused. I heard of it in every part of India we visited. Even from the case as presented by the critics of the Viceroy, it seemed a noble thing to do. I saw in it one of the many signs which convince me that India is passing from the despotism of a company, who recognized no rights but those of large dividends and a surplus revenue, to a government before whom all men have equal justice, and which will see that the humblest punkah-wallah is as much protected as the proudest peer.

When you read the history of India, its sorrow, its shame, its oppression, its wrong, it is grateful to see a Viceroy resolved to do justice to the humblest at the expense of his popularity with the ruling class.

It was at Sir Ashley Eden's entertainment that General Grant received intelligence that the “Richmond," which he had been expecting to meet him at Ceylon, had not yet passed through the Suez canal. This was a great disappointment to the General, because he hoped to have visited Ceylon and Madras. He had received a pressing invitation from the Duke of Buckingham, who governs Madras, as well as from the Governor of Ceylon ; but to have waited for the steamer would have prolonged our stay for several days. The General felt that it would be unbecoming to trespass further upon the hosts who had been so kind to him, and learning that the steamer



“Simla,” commanded by Captain Franks, was to sail for Burmah at midnight, he resolved to visit Rangoon. This resolution left Ceylon and Madras unvisited, to our regret; but it opened a new field of observation in a country full of interest, promising to be even more interesting. We had come to India late, because of our waiting for the “Richmond," and all the Europeans in India who could go were flying to the hills. Moreover, we all felt the heat so severely that even General Grant, who is an intense and merciless traveler, indifferent to the fatigues or the hardships of travel, was counting the days until we should pass the Straits of Malacca, and find comfort in the temperate zone at China and Japan.

When we embarked on the “Simla" at midnight we took our leave of Sir Ashley, who came to say good-by. In taking leave of him we felt like saying good-by to India; and the thought that occurred to us all, and to no one more than General Grant, was one of gratitude for the splendid hospitality we had received. We had made a rapid tour, too rapid, indeed, to see the country as fully as we could have wished; but from the time of our arrival in Bombay, as the guests of Sir Richard Temple at Malabar Point, until we left the stately home of Sir Ashley Eden in Calcutta, we received nothing but kindness, unvarying and considerate, and the memory of which will always make us feel that our residence in India was a residence



among friends.

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HEN morning came we found ourselves still steam

ing down the Hoogly. We found the “ Simla” as comfortable as though it had been our own yacht.

There were no passengers on board beyond our own party. Captain Franks was a young and able officer, and our run across the Bay of Bengal was as pleasant as over a summer

The nights were so warm that it was impossible to sleep in our cabins, and we sought our rest lying about on the deck. It adds something to the felicity of travel in the tropics to lie under the stars with the universe around you. The disagreeable part is the early rising, for with the dawn come the coolies with broom and bucket to scrub the decks. This is conducive to early rising, and I think we can all say that since coming to the tropics there has been no morning when we have not seen the sun rise. But being roused at dawn was never regarded by any of us as a hardship, except, perhaps, the doctor

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