does not rest upon any tenet of the early scriptures, but is a corruption. Although respect for animal life goes so far as to commend abstinence from animal food, it is not a sin for a Hindoo to eat the flesh of animals who have died a natural death cr who have been slain by others. Even the cow, which is a sacred animal, may become toothsome as beef. Purity and impurity from contact with impure things, with persons of a degraded caste, occupy a large part of the Hindoo religion. Most of these regulations seem to have been a part of the Brahminical policy which made their class sacred and enabled them to perpetuate their sway. As a general thing purity came from charity, honesty, devotion, forgiveness of your enemies, and philanthropy. Justice, truth, and virtue are always recognized and encouraged, and, to use the words of one of the clearest writers on the subject, "the tendency of Brahmin morality is rather toward innocence than active virtue, and its main objects are to enjoy tranquillity and to prevent pain or evil to any sentient being.'

But if I continue this theme I shall be launched into a sea of theological narrative and speculation. It is difficult to understand Benares without recalling some of the features of the strange and subtle faith which came from within its holy walls. As we threaded our way through its alleys and passed from shrine to shrine it seemed to be a city at prayers. Some of these temples were so narrow that even the chair-bearers could not enter, and we made our pilgrimage on foot. You enter a small archway and come into a courtyard. I should say the courtyard was a hundred feet square. In the center is a shrine -a canopied shrine. Under this is a god, whichever god happens to be worshiped. It is generally a hideous stone, without grace or expression. Pilgrims are around it, in supplication, and as they pray they put offerings on the altar before the idol. These offerings are according to the means of the devotee, but most of those I saw were flowers. Hindoo urchins come up to you and put garlands of flowers about your neck. This is an act of grace and welcome, but you are expected to give money. In front of the idol, sitting on his feet, is the Brahmin reading

somewhat arrogant. Mrs. Grant was wearing a garland of flowers, which a child who supplied flowers to the worshipers had thrown over her neck. One of the animals, seeing the flowers, and knowing them to be savory, made a rush for the garland, and before any one could interfere was munching and tearing it in a deliberate manner. Evidently that cow had had

her own way in her relations with the human race, and if she chose to make as much of a meal as possible out of the decora

tions and possessions of Mrs. Grant, it was only the force of education. One of the police came to the rescue of our lady, but it was only after a struggle that the cow could be persuaded to abandon her meal. I have no doubt many holy Brahmins. were grieved to see the authority of England in the shape of a policeman cudgel a sacred animal into its stall.

If I were to tell you of all the wells and temples in Benares, the holy places and the legends which make them sacred, it would carry me beyond bounds. Benares and its temples contain material enough for a literature instead of a mere chapter.

I 20

After we had visited several of the temples we went to the observatory of Rajah Jan Singh, built at the close of the seventeenth century, and looking down from its battlements we see the sacred river shining in the morning sun; the teeming, busy hive of temples and shrines, from which the hum of worship seems to arise; masses of pilgrims sluggishly moving toward the river to plunge into its holy waters and be cleansed of sin. We are pointed out the site of the holy well of Manikarnaki, dug by the god Vishnu, consecrated by the god Mahadeva, whose waters will wash away any sin and make the body pure. From here we went down to the water, and, on board of a steam launch, slowly we steamed under the banks, and the view of the city as seen from our boat was one of the most striking the world can afford. Although the day was not far advanced the Here was the burning Ghat, the sun was out in all his power. No office spot where the bodies of the Hindoos are burned. is so sacred to the dead as to burn his body on the banks of the Ganges. As we slowly steamed along, a funeral procession was seen bearing a body to the funeral pyre. We observed several slabs set around the burning Ghat. These were in memory of widows who had burned themselves on that spot in honor of their husbands, according to the old rite of suttee. We passed the temple of the Lord Tavaka, the special god who breathes such a charm into the ear of the dying that the departing soul goes into eternal bliss. We passed the temple built in honor of the two feet of Vishnu, and which are worshiped with divine honors. We saw the Ghats, or steps erected by Sindia, an Indian prince, built in heavy masonry, but broken as by an earthquake and slowly going to ruin. We pass the lofty mosque of Aurungzebe, notable only for its two minarets, which, rising to one hundred and fifty feet, are the highest objects in Benares, and are a landmark for miles and miles. We pass shrines and temples without number, the mere recital of whose names and attributes would fill several chapters. All this is lost in the general effect of the city as seen from the river. Benares sits on the sacred river, an emblem of the strange religion which has made it a holy city, and there is

solemnity in the thought that for ages she has kept her place on the Ganges, that for ages her shrines have been holy to millions of men, that for ages the wisest and purest and best of the Indian race have wandered as pilgrims through her narrow streets, and plunged themselves as penitents into the waters to wash away their sins. It is all a dark superstition, but let, us honor Benares for the comfort she has given to so many millions of sinful, sorrowing souls. And as we pass along the river toward our house, and leave the white towers and steps of Benares glistening in the sunshine, we look back upon it with something of the respect and affection that belong to antiquity, and which are certainly not unworthily bestowed upon so renowned, so sacred, and so venerable a city.