poplar-trees. The Tartar-houses are low and badly built of stone, with flat roofs: but, on entering, you find a large clean apartment, with a hearth against one of the walls, and a chimney over it, the fire supplying both heat and light. The windows have no glass, and merely consist of lattice-work. The whole furniture consists of carpets spread along the opposite wall, and

used instead of divans.

A mullah (priest) gave us a dish of trout; wishing to have them dressed, I went in search of the kitchen, and entered, inadvertently, into the harem. There were several pretty young women, who, on seeing me, screamed, and, dropping their work from their hands, threw themselves on the floor, and endeavoured to conceal their bare arms, faces and necks. I retreated a step; their noise ceased, and I stopped: pleased, perhaps, at my expression of agreeable surprise, they raised their heads and smiled. I advanced a step; no more screaming; the alarm had ceased-I put down the fish, requesting, by signs, to have them dressed. One laughed; another got up, put on a shawl, and approached me: they then began to whisper together, and in a few minutes all crowded round me. One took a peep at my order, another examined my bright buttons, a third admired my watch-chain, took my watch, put it to her ear, showed it to another, and then returned it to me. All this inspired me with confidence in my turn. I admired the belt of one, examined another's rings and bracelets, and was in ecstacy with the neat shoe and pretty foot of the third. Nor was there the least backwardness on their part to gratify my curiosity; and we began to be much pleased with each other, when the door suddenly opened: they all screamed, and threw themselves on the floor. An old woman entered with dishevelled hair, painted red. I made a hasty retreat, leaving the trout behind. When the general (with whom I was travelling) was informed of this adventure, he reprimanded me for my imprudence.

We left this village; and, after about an hour's ride, reached the end of the valley; and again ascended a steep hill, called Mount Aii. We were now in the higher regions, the Tshatur-dag alone, with his cloud-capped summit, being a little above us. I sat on a projecting mossy stone. A long chain of hills runs like a wall from east to west, protecting the southern coast against the chilling north winds. Close to me, the tops of trees rose from a deep abyss; below them I discovered large heaps of stone; farther down, the habitations of men; and, quite below, the Black Sea, with its tranquil waves reaching to a vast extent, and ships, like black spots, scattered over it. The silence prevailing around was occasionally interrupted by a sudden northern blast, which bent down the tops of the trees, and then all was still again.

After a short rest, we remounted our horses; but when our guide began to descend the steep declivity of the hill, and I cast a glance into the deep that lay before us, my blood curdled in my veins. A narrow rugged pass, covered with large stones, wound itself in steep paths along the side of the rocks, surrounded on every side by precipices. Being a bad horseman, I wished to alight; but was assured that my horse would carry me down more safely than I could walk. It is wonderful, indeed, to see with what sagacity these animals perform their perilous task. They are often obliged to squat on their haunches ; often to rear completely; then again press with their whole weight close against the rock, first to the right, then to the left, treading cautiously the giddy precipice. The farther we descended, the steeper the path. At times it seemed lost; and I then felt as if suspended over the mouth of Tartarus. My horse, regardless of my checks, proceeded rapidly, to avoid

rolling

rolling headlong; and, in order to preserve myself from falling, I let go the reins, and held fast by the animal's neck. We rested half-way. I never beheld a more desolate and dreary spot; large black fragments of stone, and trees fallen from the top of the hill, on all sides; impending rocks above, and unfathomable abysses below,-no trace of life, no tree, not even a blade of grass-a horrid image of death and desolation! The sun was just setting; and the universal gloom and silence were only interrupted by the faint dashing of the sea. Yet this is the only means of communication between the valley of Baidary and the southern coast.

We slept at the village of Michalatka, twenty wersts from Baidary. It is small and insignificant, and inhabited by Tartars, some of whom were sitting on the terraces before their cottages cross-legged, smoking their pipes, without being disturbed by our arrival. The country around has a bleak and deserted aspect; and this village, surrounded by gardens and fruit-trees, seems like a delightful oasis in the midst of it.

We proceeded towards Kutshuk-koi, on a path even more dangerous than the preceding. At about four wersts from the village, we were shown the spot where it formerly stood, and whence it was swept away in the year 1786 : nothing but fallen rocks, chasms and precipices, are now visible in a place so lately occupied by houses and gardens. The soil consists of a kind of aluminous slate and decayed trap, which is often carried down to the sea in large masses by the rain; and thus the mountain is rendered more precipitous, and the path constantly approaches its summit. At present it is so narrow that the horses had scarcely any footing. We at last reached the spot considered most dangerous, which extends for about a werst. We made a short halt, during which our guide examined the saddles and tightened the girths. He then led, and we followed one by one: we edged a precipice of above 200 fathoms. The manœuvres of the horses were amazing; still I cannot conceive how they contrived to proceed without losing their balance. Once I struck my shoulder against a projection of the rock, by which I lost my balance, and should have been precipitated into eternity, had not a dexterous turn of my horse saved me from falling. A shower of rain in this spot is inevitable ruin. The path led us to a mass of clay, which, rising like a column from a deep chasm, leaned on one side against the rock, leaving, however, a space of about five feet, which our horses had to leap. Many a traveller had been carried off from this clay column in high wind; it was indeed a dreary spot: wherever I turned my eyes, I saw nothing but deep chasms filled with water, and enormous fallen stones and lumps of clay. The path now suddenly turned to the left, and led slanting down the hill. I was told that all danger was over; but still large fragments of earth constantly gave way under us, and fell with a loud noise into the deep.

The path again ascended, and many clumps of trees became visible at a distance. Proceeding still higher, we came to the village of Kikeneiss, where nature again smiles in all her beauty. In this place is a walnut-tree which is considered the largest in the Crimea; in good years it is said to bear from 80,000 to 120,000 walnuts, valued at from 480 to 720 paper-roubles.

Alupka, our next station, is a Tartar village of about forty houses and a mosque its situation is retired, picturesque, and delightful. It forms an amphitheatre, facing the sea, and the small buildings are scattered between large fragments of rocks which have fallen from the overhanging mountains, and embosomed amidst large trees, fig, olive, pomegranate, peach, cypress, &c., the produce of a southern climate, intermixed with roses, jasmines, lilies,

&c.

&c. The hill above is crowned with a forest of laurels. Clear springs rise in every direction, fertilize the fields and gardens, and flow in united streams round the houses; falling, at last, in foaming cataracts into the sea. The fertility of this charming spot, justly called the Ornament of Crimea, is extraordinary, it being completely sheltered against the northerly winds, and fully exposed to the genial breezes of the south, so that the blasts of winter are never known.

Its inhabitants are said to have been originally Greeks, who, having remained in the country after the Tartar conquest, and having adopted the religion and manners of their conquerors, have lost every recollection of their parentage; but still retain the beautiful forms and features peculiar to the Greek race.

Near Yalta, the hills form a picturesque semicircle towards the sea. On their summit is an extensive and fertile table-land, on which the Tartars keep cattle during the summer season. We rode in sight of the sea through a kind of natural garden: wild vines, ivy, and other creeping plants had overrun the trees in such a manner as rendered the forests sometimes impenetrable, and in many places the majestic oaks formed natural arches over the road. Many fountains, built by pious Musulmans, and numerous springs, relieved the stern character of the landscape. The settlements of Autkas, Mussekho, Kureiss, and Gaspra, lie in the midst of the woods and meadows of this delightful country. Yalta, now an insignificant village, was anciently called Jalita, and was famous for its extensive commerce. On a steep hill behind it are the ruins of a fort, destroyed by an earthquake in the fifteenth century; and this is all that now remains of a once splendid city: this village is, however, the centre of the traffic of these parts. There is no merchant or artizan on the whole southern coast, owing to its dangerous navigation. Occasionally some of the natives freight a bark with small wood, wild currants, onions, garlic, and excellent flax. These articles are sent to Feodosia; and wheat, Turkey silks, salt, and other manufactures of domestic use are brought back in return. There are few places along the southern coast where the anchorage is safe; but that at Yalta is one of the worst: nevertheless, no boat is allowed to land at Feodosia without first obtaining pratique from the quarantine establishment: a measure which the fatalism of our Mohammedan subjects may render necessary, but which cannot but be injurious to the trade of the country.

Passing over Cape Kikeneiss, we saw the beautiful cataract called by the Tartars Akar-woo (White Water), which falls from the steep rocks into the sea, from a height of ten fathoms. The water originates from several springs near the summit of the hill. During the dry season, it may be crossed on any point without danger, but in rainy weather it has the appearance of a mighty column of snow. Amongst the most inaccessible parts of the surrounding cliffs, the strawberry-tree is occasionally found.

Thirty wersts from Yalta we reached the imperial garden of Nikitin; it is a nursery for trees and plants, and was raised out of a wilderness, under the auspices of the Duc de Richelieu, at whose representation the emperor granted 10,000 roubles per annum for its maintenance. There are already 80,000 young trees ready for delivery at an extremely low rate; but the Tartars seem little inclined to purchase.

The road to Gurssuf is very difficult, and in many places we were obliged to ride over necks of land covered by the sea, the spray of which, although the weather was tolerably calm, wetted us to the skin. The village of Gurssuf

(called,

(called, during the dominion of the Greeks, Eristhena, the powerful) consists of a number of cottages scattered over a narrow valley between two mountains, separated by a rivulet, the sides of which, to the very summits, are covered with fruit trees. The Duc de Richelieu is building himself a seat here. One of these mountains, called Aiidag, stands apart from the others close to the sea-shore, and is the site of an ancient castle and church; and among their ruins are several columns, which, by some antiquaries, are thought to have belonged to the Parthenon at Athens. The remaining walls and loop-holes rest against the steep rocks, from whence the cruel ruler of Tauris used to hurl into the sea all strangers who fell into his hands.

On the other side of the Aiidag is the delightful village of Parthenit, which has still preserved its Greek name. A high cape near it, which projects far into the sea, forms nearly a perfect cone, and consists of a hard kind of lava, called peperino, and which is susceptible of polish. On the other side of Parthenit we saw ripe wheat, being of the first crop, which ripens in June; the second crop attains maturity in September; but it is seldom the lazy Tartars sow more than once.

The country about Kutchuk-Lambat is beautiful. The mountains rise in regular gradation from the sea; the tops of the farthest ranges are covered with firs and junipers, others are clothed with fruit-trees. The valleys consist of meadows and corn-fields; Tartar villages and gentlemen's houses adorn the hills, enlivening the scene by their brilliant white walls and red roofs.

The road from Lambat led over hills subsiding gradually into an extensive valley, out of which, at the distance of about five wersts from the sea, Tchaturdag, the colossus of the Crimea, raises its isolated head to the height of 1,250 fathoms above the level of the sea; its base extends above twenty wersts in every direction. The top of this mountain, the first landmark for the mariner who approaches the peninsula, has the appearance of an open tent: hence its name. It lies in the centre of Crimea, and all the great rivers of the country flow from its base in an easterly direction. The east and west sides are steep, the others are sloping: these are covered with forests towards the sea, but are naked towards the summit, near which are three open spots covered with a rich soil, which produces alpine plants. Some hollows, in, accessible to the rays of the sun, are filled with perpetual snow. The pasturage has ever been the common property of the surrounding inhabitants, and their cattle are annually brought here and left to graze during the summer, without any care, each owner having a particular mark by which he distinguishes his property at the approach of winter, when the flocks and herds are taken home, The Merino sheep thrive here remarkably well.

The road beyond Tchatur-dag became again very difficult, and even dangerous. We attempted to cross Mount Kostel, which the sea is gradually washing away; but the ground was so loose that our horses would not proceed on it, and we were compelled to ride under it, along the sea-shore, in perpetual danger of being buried under its falling masses.

The whole of the southern coast is, during the winter months, subject to sudden inundations, caused by heavy rains among the mountains. The poor inhabitants, after losing their all in the general destruction, are often shut up in their dwellings for a fortnight, all communication with their neighbours being cut off by the depth of the mud, and new ravines.

The first village we reached after passing the above dangerous spot was Alushta, where the free communication with the interior again begins, and is carried on by means of country waggons, called arbas. The mountains behind

[JAN. this village are again high, naked, and bearing a few stunted juniper-trees. Every object is cold and melancholy; but the scenery is grand and majestic. At Kutchuk-Usen we visited a gentleman who had made a successful attempt to introduce the silk-worm. The mulberry-trees grow here very quickly, and without much attention, and the proprietor already derives a considerable income from the silk. This village is situated at the foot of naked hills of redstone; but is surrounded on all sides by gardens, vineyards, and mulberryplantations. The wine produced here is tolerably good.

The road led again over sterile mountains, without a single tree. This melancholy aspect continued till we had ascended the last range, when we suddenly beheld, on the other declivity, the cheerful village of Tuwak, inclosed with fruit-trees. A colony of Germans has settled here, and the whole has the appearance of a Swiss valley. The mountain we had just passed is nearly as high as the Tchatur-dag, and has a very particular appearance; a great number of towers, pyramids, and columns of clay, as if made by human hands, covering its summit.

In this mountainous desert I was left behind, with two others, by the guides and the rest of our party, in the midst of towering rocks and frightful precipices. The only living beings we saw were a few mountain-eagles, which, unacquainted with danger in this solitude, fearlessly hovered round our heads. At last we were fortunate enough to fall in with a Tartar goatherd, who pointed out a path which brought us to the sea-side, whence, after doubling a far-projecting cape, we saw the poplars of the village of Yusskut, where we found our party, as tired as ourselves, having also missed their road. We travelled that day at least ninety wersts.

Yusskut is the richest and most populous settlement on the southern coast, cultivation extending several wersts from the village, which is distributed over an amphitheatre of three stages. The common Tartar cottages are interspersed amongst houses of two stories; in the midst is a mosque, with a beautiful minaret, bearing a gilt crescent: the burying-ground, with its marble tombs, surmounted with turbans and shapeless masks, forms a picturesque object. The inhabitants trade with Constantinople, and, owing to their frequent intercourse with strangers, are civil and polite; even the women are not concealed. Upon asking my host for a pipe of tobacco, he gave me a pouch-full, of excellent quality, with three Turkish pipes, called stambulki. On my offering payment, the Tartar placed his hand on his breast, and said, with an expressive smile, "We do not receive payment from our guests; I beg you will accept these trifles as a present from me." These people acknowledged themselves very grateful to the Russian Government: for they not only enjoy the fullest protection of the law, but have all the privileges of noble proprietors, and are exempt from personal service to the crown; they are, however, worthy of this lenity, and in the memorable year of 1812, the Tartars of Crimea mounted 4,000 horsemen at their own expense, and placed all their young men at the disposal of Government. This was so great a sacrifice, that the Emperor returned them public thanks, and accepted scarcely the fourth part of their offer.

The mountains separate here, and the road to Karass-Basar leads through the valley formed by their separation, the entrance to which is indicated by two high conical rocks standing on both sides. The road is rather hilly, and little wooded; yet all the villages through which we came were shaded by an abundance of trees. It is surprising with what skill the Asiatics avail themselves of every rill of water to improve their soil. The mills, too, in this

country,